Alright, I didn't read the entire thread, but here's some info. If you look at a dyno chart of your engine with it's stock 7000 (ish) rpm redline, you'll notice the power peaks around 6600-6800 rpm then starts to drop. Going beyond that point your engine starts making less power (simplifed, the valves are opening and closing so fast at those speeds, less air is actually getting into the engine becuase your cams don't have enough lift or duration) and that will continue to drop. Also, your stock valvesprings aren't built to go above the stock redline and may not be strong enough to push the valves closed when the cam lobes leave (call valve float) leaving them in the middle of the combustion chamber when the piston comes flying up, they make contact and your engine is destroyed. Upgraded valve springs will help protect your engine from the extreme rpms but without upgraded cams, the extra rpms are pointless. Changing the VTEC point is also pretty much without benefit with stock cams because Honda enginners designed the cams to operate at exactly the rpm they use. VTEC's not like a nitrous system turning on, it's a mechanical swtich to a set of high rpm cams that are designed to work in a specific range for maxium efficency.

Long story short, upgrading your ECU to raise the revlimiter or change the VTEC point is bacially pointless without other very serious engine modifications (specifically a cam upgrade, valvetrain upgrade and maybe grinding/porting work). If you've got some money burning a hole in your pocket, access to a dyno and want to make some sort of electronics upgrade, consider a fuel controller like a V-AFC. You won't find my performance changing the VTEC point with one, but minor adjustments to the fuel maps can help free up some extra horsepower and make the most of the modificaitons you already have. Tuning without access to a dyno is basically pointless though as the power differences will be almost impossible to "feel" but may add up to a small difference in 1/4 times.