If you turn a rotor you take material off of it obviously. This means its not a good of a heatsync, which means it will warp EASIER.

If im going to waste my time tearing off the rotors i'd just put new ones on.

Resurface for 3 x 20 per rotor or replace for 39.99 from autozone and then pay a couple more bucks for a lifetime warranty... doenst make sense, and I dont know why you're even argueing the point.

One thing I thought i'd throw in is: make sure you're torqueing your wheels properly. If you're wrenchin' them down tight as you can you're not helping your rotor situation.

94uhkord: You are incorrect on your 'rotor glazing' ... Rotors get 'shiney' by the forces of friction/physical contact. It's from the pad material being bedded onto the rotor. Very rarely you will see a rotor that has been severely overheated and will change to a dull color. This happens because the heat tempering has been basically removed from the rotor.

PADS are what glaze due to heat. When a pad glazes it becomes a nice block of slick friction lining providing zero stopping force. This is generally caused by A. not breaking in cheap pads (cheap pads being what most brake shops use) B. Riding on the brakes way past the point or fade.

Bottom line: if you must use cheap pads BREAKING THEM IN IS VITAL. If you want to know more about properly breaking in a pad, lemme know. even good pads should be given an easy time for a lil bit.