you're thinking about ATTS. the ATTS controller can only direct torque up to ~25oft/lbs before it goes tits up.

as for the SS, yes, the torque converter cannot fully lock when you add too much power to it. this is true of most automatic trannies, and is the big reason why autos dyno less than 5 speeds.

i'll assume everyone here knows how a torque converter works, so thus you'll see why the above statement holds truth.

but gettin a torque converter that is able to withstand the added power, plus have a stall speed that will aloow you to launch the car at a useful rpm is the key to making power. if this werent true, NHRA wouldnt be using automatics, and the NHRA Sport Compacts, NDRA, and IDRC would allow for automatics to be used... simply put: AUTO TRANNIES ARE AN UNFAIR ADVANTAGE. no one can shift faster than a properly setup auto tranny.

so, with that out of the way... let's begin:

rebuild the torque converter. take it to Level 10 and have them set it up to make power. they can adjust the valving to increase your stall speed to a launchable rpm, tune the lockup unit so it shifts harder and stronger, with less time for the stall converter to "swim" in between gears, thus putting more power to the ground.

your AT controller can also be programmed to shift at better intervals, especially if you go with a set of cams and a valvetrain upgrade to raise your redline.

lock up both wheels. nothing says "slow" like a peglegged burnout. the guy who posted earlier who had a JRSC boosted prelude was running mid 14's. with a locker, he would probably be running low14's to high 13's since the stock tranny cant put that kind of power to the ground efficiently. a look at his 60' times would be more telling, as would a trap speed.

adding 50% more hp to any motor with one wheel spinning is a waste of time, if you're concerned about drag racing performance. make use of that 50% by employing it with both wheels.