Originally posted by egzivic
There are several issues to consider when changing even a stock brake booster. There is a push rod adjustment that is difficult to do in the car that is mostly the cause of your draging issues. If you look on behind the brake pedal you will notice a 12 point nut. That nut locks the push rod adjustment. With the booster removed measure from the base of the booster to the clevis (bracket that connects the push rod to the pedal assembly). It should measure 116 +/- .5 mm. If not loosen the 12 point nut and adjust the push rod. If the push rod is too far (the measurement is less than 116mm) what would happen is the brakes would be applied constantly. The shorter the measurement the more the brakes would be applied. Like I said it is not a fun adjustment in the car, but it can be done if you have a 12 point box 14mm (I think, maybe 12mm) wrench that you are willing to cut a notch in to make it a 12 point line wrench. The other issue maybe the bleding process. Make sure to bench bleed the master cylinder before it is installed. It can be messy, but it could save you from issues in the long run. If you need to know how to bench bleed the master cylinder PM me as this thread is getting long.
The brake booster/master cylinder adjustment procedure should be available in an manual as well. The measurement I provided was for an Integra booster/master cylinder, but the process and adjustment is the same for a Civic.
wow. long post. That may be my problem, I never adjusted the pushrod on the teg booster I put on. I can measure it up against the civic one and match the pushrod stroke... I think I'll tackle this one off the car, though. thanks for the info.