blackjeep

Yesterday my wife was driving my 98 Accord EX, when at a red light, the clutch pedal slowly dropped about 3-4 inches(she described it as feeling like a brake pedal that has just lost fluid pressure). She said it regained pressure about 3-4 inches down from the top. Also, a faint popping occurs when shifting from 1st, 2nd and 3rd. The pedal is now loose feeling from the top, down about 3-4 inches to where there is pressure. I am wondering if this signifies that my clutch has gone out, or that the Clutch slave or master cylinder has gone out, or something else if anyone knows? Thanks for the help!

blackjeep

Yesterday my wife was driving my 98 Accord EX, when at a red light, the clutch pedal slowly dropped about 3-4 inches(she described it as feeling like a brake pedal that has just lost fluid pressure). She said it regained pressure about 3-4 inches down from the top. Also, a faint popping occurs when shifting from 1st, 2nd and 3rd. The pedal is now loose feeling from the top, down about 3-4 inches to where there is pressure. I am wondering if this signifies that my clutch has gone out, or that the Clutch slave or master cylinder has gone out, or something else if anyone knows? Thanks for the help!

sylvester_0

Same thing just happened to my 92 civic with 155K+ miles Oh well, time for a new(er) car anyways.

EDIT: BTW, it'll only get worse. At first I could still drive it. Now when I'm sitting in my parking spot at my complex I try shifting [read: shoving] it into first and it creeps forward (with the clutch fully pressed down) and reverse just griiinds (damn unsynchronized gears!) My dad used to drive the car by starting out in 2nd gear (used to driving the old grain trucks on the farm I guess). Ever since I started driving it I had to get it to about 2,000-2,200 RPM just to start out without "bucking" or bogging. The other day I had my seat back or reclined more than usual so I think I didn't use the combo "just right" and it finally did my clutch in.

sponginpunk

if the pedal is droppin off pressure...its more than likely your master clinder or a leak in your hydraulic lines. did you check the fluid?

TSM

If you look up into the fire wall inside the car you could see if the master is leacking it will stream down the firewall inside but it sounds like a hydro problem

JimBlake

First look for fluid leaking out. At least check if you're losing fluid inventory from the clutch reservoir.

The master cylinder is the only place where it's possible to leak back into the reservoir. So if it's not leaking OUT, it must be the master.

As the clutch disk itself wears out (thin), the clutch will engage/disengage at a higher & higher point. That's opposite from your explanation.

Phateless

sylvester, you're an idiot, you're FUCKING your transmission instead of replacing a $150 part that always goes out at that mileage! jeez! it's almost definitely the clutch master cylinder. easy to replace. why do people ignore problems and screw up other things instead of fixing the issue? and as for launching, you're supposed to launch at 2000 rpms, the motor's only a 1.5. you shouldn't drive below 2000 rpms anyway, you have 7000 to work with, use em!

sylvester_0

Ehm, OK thanks for that assessment. I'm not driving the car right now. It's been sitting in the same spot for 3 days now. h: I wish I had 7000 rpms to play with. 6500 here ding dong. Anyways, IANAM but I know my clutch has never been "right" after driving tons of other manuals. I've been driving them since I was 12 years old...fucking idiot

Phateless

if your car starts moving as soon as it's in gear, your clutch is obviously catching. in fact, it's catching when it's supposed to be released. logic dictates that the problem is the clutch not releasing. that means it's either the master cylinder, slave cylinder, or a leak. i just can't imagine mashing through the gears like that. my point is: you should take your car to a shop and get your clutch master cylinder replaced before you damage your transmission. in fact, you should replace your tranny fluid (with honda mtf ONLY) just as a precaution, because you've been mashing your gears. so you've been driving clutch since 12, good. you should have a better feel for what's going on and know not to force things when there's a problem. i'm just trying to help you get your car working properly. i've been driving clutch for 8 years now, and i always rev-match and double-clutch my downshifts. i always work on my own stuff, and if something changes, i can usually feel roughly what's going on so that i don't hurt the car.