Rocky_LC

My wife's 2001 Oddyssey has left her stranded three times now over the last two months. The problem is somehow related to the fuel pump. When she stops the vehicle, and turns off the key, it (occasionally) won't start, and it sounds like there is no fuel going to the injectors.

You can get the vehicle to start if you pull / reinsert the #1 fuze (fuel pump) with the ignition in the "ON" position. You can hear the fuel pump start up, and pressurize the system. After that, the van fires right up

The amazing thing is that we can make the system fail (not every time, but about 1 in 20 start attempts) like this by leaving my wife's phone charger (and phone) into the cigarette lighter when stopping and starting the vehicle.

My question - is there any kind of fuel cutoff (security system) that might sense some kind of electrical load / spike, and cut off the fuel pump?

I don't want to replace the fuel pump (which cost $229 for the pump and strainer, by the way), if the problem is a computerized fuel cutoff....

Thanks -

Rocky

PS. Can you get to the fuel pump in a '2001 Oddy via an access port under the carpet, or do you have to drop the fuel tank?

Rocky_LC

This sounds like the same problem.

How does this "immobilizer" immobilize the car? By shutting off the fuel pump?

https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...ight=fuel+pump

Thanks -

Rocky

Tedmond

How does this "immobilizer" immobilize the car? By shutting off the fuel pump?

you are correct. the immobilize cuts off the fuel pump. the RF signal from the key is transmitted to the ignition cylinder where the transponder RF ring sits. From there, data is transmitted to your data system. from the data, it is sent back to your fuel pump. There is no actual way to bypass an RF data system. Unlike GM where its all resistor based, hacking it is easy. as for the cellphone issue, the frequency of the cell should not affect the cars immobilizer.

do you have an aftermarket alarm on the car?
does the car ignition come on. im asking because fuel pump gets it power from the ignition 2 wire.

Rocky_LC

Tedmond -

Thanks for the insight on the situation. I am guessing that for some reason the key RF is not getting properly recognized.

I will watch the dash - apparently there are indications that the proper key is being detected.

To answer your questions:

1. do you have an aftermarket alarm on the car?

No - the vehicle is completely stock

2. does the car ignition come on. im asking because fuel pump gets it power from the ignition 2 wire.

It seems like it. Everything works normally, except that the engine won't "kick over". The starter will crank the engine, the engine never runs. On the first couple of tries, the engine kicks a little, then cranks with no firing of the cylinders. After that point (I believe when all the fuel is depleted), the starter will crank the engine, but the engine never fires.

Thanks Again -

Rocky

Tedmond

well as u mentioned watching the dash. Look to the left inside the circle. ON the top right usually or left, there is a Green key symbol. place key into ignition and see it flash. It will stop after 15-20 seconds. If it doesnt and keeps flashing, try to start it. the car should not turn over completly. it will just crank and crank-meaning there are issues with the factory transponder ring. If this is the case. the way to "bypass" your system would mean spending 30-40 dollars to pick up an aftermarket bypass kit that will MOCK your key during remote start. as for the ignition, it seems ok. not too sure but im betting on the factory immobilzer. I have only seen one fail, but this was due to an improper installation of a starter. just another random question for you. have the keys been placed close to a magnet? i know its random as hell, but there has been issues of this happening befor.

Rocky_LC

Thanks again, Ted.

We are going to drive around with two keys, and see if we can figure out if one is worse than the others.

At least we (seem to be) understanding what the problem is. Now all I have to do is get the Auto Parts store to accpet the return of the $229 Fuel Pump / Fuel Filter I bought.

Thanks -

Rocky

Tedmond

NP, im sure autoparts would understand. i know they have a return policy, as long as no items have been opened i think.

Rocky_LC

Cross Post to two people having the same problem....

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showth...940#post395940

They suspect "Main Relay". We will monitor things and see what shakes out.

Thanks -

Rocky

Rocky_LC

The problem continues. Recently for longer durations. It occurred yesterday at the dealership, but after a couple of hours, it started up and they were unable to touublshoot - so they gave it back to us! (Can You Believe It?)

Anyway - I got a couple of helpful tips from the service guy there.

He did not think it was the Main Reley, becuase when it was not starting, he swapped it out, and it still wouldn't start. Then when he was probing for voltage at the "Fuze #1" (Drivers Kick Panel Fuze Box) - the system started working.

He thinks that the problem is in the "Multiplexer" - which he describes as a series of connections that are attached to the back side of the main drivers side kick panel fuze box.

He says Ody's have had intermittent problems in the Multiplexer area that results in windows not working, etc. He has not seen one like this with the fuel pump, though.

He also doesn't think it's an immobilizer problem, or a fuel pump problem.

One recommended approach is to bypass the "multiplexer" by connecting the Blk/Yellow wire direct. I'n not ready of that level of surgery just yet....

Rocky

Rocky_LC

Here's the dealer's schematic.

They recommend I bypass the multiplexer (Right Side)


ODY_Fuel_Schematic sm.JPG