here is a quick vid I made of some of our fun runs

click me

hope you got broadband

 

I always run higher pressures in the rain, regardless of the tires. Helps hold the tire in shape better when hitting standing water [prevents hydroplanes], and you can get away with it since the tire won't have a chance to over-heat from the pressure in a constant wet.

 

Camber could well be an issue. Your tires might not have enough grip in the rain to decamber in a corner and aren't providing a good contact patch.

From the video it looks like it looks like you were having problems with rotation, and corner exit understeer. Is there a difference in your shock settings front/rear in the dry?

From your dry pressures, I would suggest 38fr/28(or less)rr in the wet. If that doesn't do it, try a turn or two stiff on the front shocks and full soft rear (that should lessen the exit understeer problem. Might cause an entry understeer problem though).
FWIW, my dry pressures on the Azenis are 50fr/27rr. 'Course my car weighs much more and I'm on a stock suspension. It's a little unnerving at first to go under 30 psi rear, but it's worth it.

As for the tires, this is my second season on the Azenis, with plenty of rain days. The tires are very good rain tires. The only issue is decent size standing water puddles.

 

For rain I've been told to keep the tires with traction softer in shock settings. Remember Koni Yellows are only rebound adjustable.

 

Yeah, that's why I thought stiffening up the fronts might help - since you're understeering the tires with more grip are the rears - even though it seems kind of backwards for us FWDers.

Regardless, I think the tire pressures might be more helpful. Your best run was with the biggest differential fr/rr. With the rears even lower, you get less understeer, with somewhat predictable traction loss from the rear. I say somewhat because when I first dropped my pressures in the rear, I almost looped it a couple of times because I was used to understeering like crazy and trying to throw the car into turns while trailbraking. The first couple of times with the lower pressures taught me quick I didn't need to do that anymore. Given that changing camber would be a pain in the butt, pressures seem the easiest way to get change.

 

yeah how do you solve the understeer?

 

You make the front grip more than the rear

You can add:
1. bigger rear sway bar
2. stiffer rear springs
3. stiffer rear shocks
4. stiffer or softer rear tires (relative to the fronts)
5. front end lighter
6. front lower than the rear

 

not sure who told you to decrease pressure, but increasing pressure would make more sense and has worked for me...

when you decrease pressure, it makes for a larger contact patch which also means that it'll hydroplane easier.. when you increase pressure, hopefully, it'll bubble ever so slightly in the middle allowing it to cut through water easier and giving you more tire patch actually touching the road and not the surface of the water...