hmmmm....any diesel truck experts among the BMW-Honda-Acura.net crew?
looking at an 01 F250 7.3L powerstroke for a truck to have around the house. Wondering if anybody has intimate knowledge or stuff that is common issue to look for when purchasing. kthnx
Don't have personal experience, but from what I've heard, the old 5.9 Cummins in the Dodge Ram is the way to go amongst the diesel trucks (just not in CA, the high output version didn't pass smog here). The older Powerstrokes supposedly had some reliability issues...don't know about the newer models. Maybe Nightshade will weigh in, I think he has a lot of experience with diesels.
I don't know a ton, but the 7.3Ls are a damn good motor. I have a few buddies that have them, and they always say they're the best diesel motor ford has made for the past 20 years.
As far as the motor they are as solid as they get...automatic transmissions are prone to failure though so I would reccomend a stick.
The only other thing I can think of is a mild fuel starvation on the 7th cylinder (I think) that can be cured with a simple and cheap crossover kit to balance the fuel pressure in the rails...if not its like 20 bucks in parts you can put together in your garage and find at a hydraulic hose shop, its known as the "cackle" which really isn't an issue but most do it as prevention.
Get a programmer if it doesn't have one already, in stock settings they are a bit of a dog but a programmer turned a stage above stock makes a big difference all around.
Get rid of the cat and muffler, they are useless and you don't smog a diesel anyways.
2wds eat ball joints a bit but they aren't hard to replace as its a single unit with the rotors.
Ummm...that's all I can think of off the top of my head really. If you are looking at an auto I would offer less than a comparable stick unless it has been rebuilt recently but even then I would shop around to swap a manual into it (it is what I am currently doing to mine due to failed auto).
The only other thing I can think of is a mild fuel starvation on the 7th cylinder (I think) that can be cured with a simple and cheap crossover kit to balance the fuel pressure in the rails...if not its like 20 bucks in parts you can put together in your garage and find at a hydraulic hose shop, its known as the "cackle" which really isn't an issue but most do it as prevention.
Get a programmer if it doesn't have one already, in stock settings they are a bit of a dog but a programmer turned a stage above stock makes a big difference all around.
Get rid of the cat and muffler, they are useless and you don't smog a diesel anyways.
2wds eat ball joints a bit but they aren't hard to replace as its a single unit with the rotors.
Ummm...that's all I can think of off the top of my head really. If you are looking at an auto I would offer less than a comparable stick unless it has been rebuilt recently but even then I would shop around to swap a manual into it (it is what I am currently doing to mine due to failed auto).
__________________
"I'll keep my money, guns and freedom. You can keep the "Change."
"I'll keep my money, guns and freedom. You can keep the "Change."
h:
__________________
"I'll keep my money, guns and freedom. You can keep the "Change."
"I'll keep my money, guns and freedom. You can keep the "Change."
"Yes, I know a lot about these. There is a lot to look for. Main thing is rust. My Bed Rails that mount to the Frame are shot. Mechanically these Trucks are good.
Check the Ball Joints, they only last 80K, also was a recall on the CPS, I keep one in the Truck along W/ a 10mm socket and extension. Truck dies when it goes bad.
It must be the International 7.3 Liter if it is a Diesel, that was the best Engine. 97, 99, 00, 01, 02, and first part of 2003.
Depending on how it was used and how it was cared for they are good for 300,000 miles or more.
The Guy I bought the John Deere from traded his 99 in W/ something like 340,000 and still ran great.
arcarz.com has a 2002 full size W/ extended cab, 4wd 106,000 mi. for like $16,000.00"
Check the Ball Joints, they only last 80K, also was a recall on the CPS, I keep one in the Truck along W/ a 10mm socket and extension. Truck dies when it goes bad.
It must be the International 7.3 Liter if it is a Diesel, that was the best Engine. 97, 99, 00, 01, 02, and first part of 2003.
Depending on how it was used and how it was cared for they are good for 300,000 miles or more.
The Guy I bought the John Deere from traded his 99 in W/ something like 340,000 and still ran great.
arcarz.com has a 2002 full size W/ extended cab, 4wd 106,000 mi. for like $16,000.00"
Forgot all about the CPS issue, once replaced with the updated version (grey housing I believe) it should be a non-issue. Takes about 10 mins to replace yourself or 2 hours at the dealer and the part is like 30 or 40 bucks if you have to pay out of pocket on it.
__________________
"I'll keep my money, guns and freedom. You can keep the "Change."
"I'll keep my money, guns and freedom. You can keep the "Change."
"Yes, I know a lot about these. There is a lot to look for. Main thing is rust. My Bed Rails that mount to the Frame are shot. Mechanically these Trucks are good.
Check the Ball Joints, they only last 80K, also was a recall on the CPS, I keep one in the Truck along W/ a 10mm socket and extension. Truck dies when it goes bad.
It must be the International 7.3 Liter if it is a Diesel, that was the best Engine. 97, 99, 00, 01, 02, and first part of 2003.
Depending on how it was used and how it was cared for they are good for 300,000 miles or more.
The Guy I bought the John Deere from traded his 99 in W/ something like 340,000 and still ran great.
arcarz.com has a 2002 full size W/ extended cab, 4wd 106,000 mi. for like $16,000.00"
Check the Ball Joints, they only last 80K, also was a recall on the CPS, I keep one in the Truck along W/ a 10mm socket and extension. Truck dies when it goes bad.
It must be the International 7.3 Liter if it is a Diesel, that was the best Engine. 97, 99, 00, 01, 02, and first part of 2003.
Depending on how it was used and how it was cared for they are good for 300,000 miles or more.
The Guy I bought the John Deere from traded his 99 in W/ something like 340,000 and still ran great.
arcarz.com has a 2002 full size W/ extended cab, 4wd 106,000 mi. for like $16,000.00"
I went and looked at the one near my house and I liked it but decided I am gonna wait on something with Crew Cab. The backseat is ample, but not comfortable in just the extended cab. Also think I am going to keep an eye out for a southern truck and just fly down to pick it up. Everything in Mi is used as a plow truck and thus rust is king.
Dealerships don't touch anything I own...ever.


