So, I've already changed up my audio setup... *PICS*
 

Well, I picked up the Kicker KX550.3 & JL 10W3v2 last week.

I thought it was good enough, but I made out like a banshee today @ Tweeter.

I purchased the W3v2 for $149 last week, returned it for $175.04 today. The 10W6v2 was marked down to $240 for me, so it only costed me $68.86 to upgrade. :jawdrop:

Here's some pics:

http://homepage.myeastern.com/~ur313.../Box-Front.jpg
http://homepage.myeastern.com/~ur313...s/Box-Back.jpg
http://homepage.myeastern.com/~ur313...es/UpClose.jpg
The sound produced is much deeper, more accurate than the W3v2. I would constantly get annoyed at how sloppy the 3v2 sounded, but this is MUCH better.

how large is that box? how loud is it? any problems with air circulation around your amp?

It's this big:

http://homepage.myeastern.com/~ur313...ges/OldSub.jpg

The only louder 10" I've heard is the W7 pushed by a JL 500/1 in my friend's 89 Celica GT-S.

I've never really been a fan of JL subs before these new ones. They've always been too boomy for me, but now they've combined crazy amounts of boom & great accuracy. :thumbup:

:down:

People who stick "systems" in Type-Rs should be dragged out into the street and shot. Just as you have exercised your freedom of speech, so have I.

:joshers:

why's your box so wide?

isn't it bad to bolt an amp to a box? that's what i've heard anyway.

umm why??? if you're thinking this because of weight issues,...the box in his car is not there for good,...its not welded to the body or anything,..it can be removed for track days,...he is just improving his sound system from his stock sound system

Actually, we're working on quick release molex plugs for the box. To feed signal on one side, power & ground on the other. So when I autocross, the box lifts RIGHT out. If anyone has a problem with my system, realize I've put 17K on this car in 9 months. It's a daily driver, it'll be a track car after it's paid off. I've already mentioned autocross, so :fawk: the haters.

I'm also trying to work out a system where I can switch something up front, to send power to the front speakers via the deck, because the amp is a 3-channel.

I've thought this all out decently well for once and had it professionally installed. I just happened to be part of the engineering process.

Because it's got an amp flush mounted in the back, so it's not ALL airspace for the sub. It's the amount of airspace the sub calls for, so we fit it to the car.

I ain't listenend to the 10W6v2 but the original 10W6 was like the cleanest-sounding sub evAr.