check out the car: http://burnehonda.com/Preowned-Inven...oryId=16381978

what do you think we can get that for?

My accord forum thread about it.
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=257327

 

The best chance you have for getting a good deal is shortly before closing Christmas eve or the day before. Why? Everyone and their brother is out chasing last minute gifts, not car shopping.

What works for me:

Do a complete inspection of the outer body, and MAKE SURE you rub or feel every ding, dent or imperfection on the body, and make sure the salesman sees you do it.

Check every function and touch every imperfection in the interior, once again making sure the salesman sees you do it.

Check the mechanics closely, even if you dont know what you're doing, look like you do. Pull the oil dipstick and closely examine the oil on the stick and look for buildup towards the top of the dipstick. Pull the oil fill cap, look inside the cap checking for buildup, and do the same by looking in the valve cover. Try to uncover any imperfection and make sure the salesman sees them too, dont mention it, just let the salesman see you work.

Dangle the carrot:

If the sales rep asks you to go inside, dont hesitate, but dont look too interested. The salesman will likely ask you to write stuff down on paper, like what you will give. Often the page is divided into 4 boxes. This is a means of getting you comfortable with a pen being in your hand to sign up for the car. In a polite manner, tell the salesman, "Just give me a bottom-line figure", and DONT WRITE ANYTHING DOWN!!! DONT EVEN TAKE THE PEN! When you get the figure, no matter what it is, politely say thank you for your time and we'll consider it, and start to walk out. If the salesman trys to stop you or asks what you will give, tell them "we're looking for an end of the year deal and it just doesn't seem like this is the deal we're looking for."

You see a salesman's job is to subtlely control you and try to get you to buy his car. Don't let them be in control. Often these control tactics are subtle, like "take a right here" or "why dont you pull over and let the Mrs take over" or "we have a route we take all customers for test rides on". Basically if the salesman asks you to do something, and he can "make" you do it, you play into his control game, and stand a good chance of getting the car for a far less better deal.

Don't let the sales manager scare you. It's likely if the salesman feels he's lost control of the deal he will enlist the sales manager's help quickly. Sales managers are pit bulls lying in wait, so be ready. Even if the MGR gets a little "heated" so to speak, maintain your poise and control, and YOU will be the one controlling the deal, NOT THE SELLER.

Also, no foul intended, avoid being a prick no matter how much of a prick they are.

Bottom line, keep control of the deal, keep control of your emotions, dont be afraid to walk the deal and DONT BE AFRAID TO LOW-BALL THEM. Try to find the "Black Book" (dealer only value guide) and make your first offer based on a figure between rough and average wholesale.

My black book for the midwest shows that car to be valued about $5800 rough, $6600 average, $7150 good $7800 excellent. Plus or minus for model and miles. So you might start around $6600. DONT worry about pissing them off. If they get pissed do you really want to buy a car from them?

Personally at this time of year you should be able to buy that car for around $7900 to $8500, depending on variables, equip, miles, condition.

REMEMBER MIND CONTROL GAMES COME IN ALL SHAPES AND SIZES. Dont fall for any tricks like someone else's looking at it and you need to make a deposit, or them telling you they'll just keep the car. Look for the games, they'll likely come fast and furious.

My favorite line at the end of non-successful negotiations: "They haven't stopped making these cars, so I guess I'll wind up with whatever deal is best for me"

Have questions? Please post them

 

F23 automatics are garbage.

 

I dont think he asked for "How to buy a car 101"

They're not going to sell an 11k sticker priced car for nearly half price :rofl:

 

Not sure I'd go for something with that much mileage on it... :dunno:

 

Too much money for what it is......

 

OHS, well written.

 

way too much $$ for that car. check blue book and then figure in your mileage, try to go $3-4K under that.

 

well i have a 98.....had 32k on it when i bought it in 01. it now has 185k on it & it is still running like a champ. still gets 22-25 city & 30-34 hwy & the only REAL expense i've had maintence-wise was timing belt replacement @ 125k


like i said above, mine has 185k on it & it is just now starting to slip....due mostly from the fact that i moved to the city & 99.99999% of my driving is now stop & go city drivng.

i can see where somebody would say that a car w/ 185k miles & 8 years old is garbage

.....maybe if we are talking about a foundation for a high-performance racer, but for what i imagine his gf is wanting......a day-to-day driver that is the automotive equivalent of the energizer bunny....then i'd say it is an excellent choice :thumbup:

 

i'd say somewhere in the ballpark of 75-7900 :dunno: