Cordless impact drivers?
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Eastern MA
Originally Posted by Kestrel
Yup using a spanner wrench and a mallet :happysad:
100 ft/lbs in theory should be enough, but the rating on impacts is dependent on the size of the socket as well. Definitely a 240 ft/lb impact wrench would be plenty.
100 ft/lbs in theory should be enough, but the rating on impacts is dependent on the size of the socket as well. Definitely a 240 ft/lb impact wrench would be plenty.
I
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Westside til I die
Originally Posted by MPerson
Wow 240 ft/lbs? I dont know much about impact drivers, but do you mean in/lbs?
It looks like the Harbor Freight one would fit your needs. You could always go to sears and see what they have, figure out what works, and then return it...go find one with a similar rating for cheaper.
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
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Push to shock!
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Palo Alto, CA
I do it manually in the morning and at night when I have time to do it. But we want to drop our tire change time on the road to under 3 minutes....no time to use the torque wrench then.
It's my first day.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 13,635
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From: Grafton, WI.
Coupla guys use these for taking their wheel lugs off at the track, it sure makes quick work of that part of your day. You should consider you can get a 300 ft/lb air driven impact for the same price as that horrible freight driver, so if you really dont need the cordless freedom there is no point in buying it. That said a friend of mine has one and it seems to do the job quite handily, it really depends on what you're using it for.
Ah, it seems you have the same idea we all did when we bought ours. That horrible freight driver should work fine, my teammates had his for a year with no problems. To avoid the re-torque with a torque wrench problem you could look into a torque-stick. You attach the stick between your socket and the driver and it is tempered in such a way to torque whatever youre working on the same every time. They tend to be very accurate.
Ah, it seems you have the same idea we all did when we bought ours. That horrible freight driver should work fine, my teammates had his for a year with no problems. To avoid the re-torque with a torque wrench problem you could look into a torque-stick. You attach the stick between your socket and the driver and it is tempered in such a way to torque whatever youre working on the same every time. They tend to be very accurate.
It's my first day.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 13,635
Likes: 0
From: Grafton, WI.
Originally Posted by MPerson
Wow 240 ft/lbs? I dont know much about impact drivers, but do you mean in/lbs?
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...tive+Air+Tools
$770 but "Tough steel clutch housing. 300-1400 ft./lbs. working torque range. Average 12 cfm at 90 psi. 1/2 in. NPT air inlet. 1/2 in. minimum hose size."
Suspension bolts and crank bolts can get their dumbass selfs torqued with rust or through the course of wear to around 300 ft lbs no problem.
Here is a black and decker for $99, Notice it only does 83 ft/lbs at its max rating. Seems to me wheel lugs are ALL you're going to do with this. Now this is 12 volts, but for 10 dollars less you can get this 14.4 volt machine.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00911403000
well be careful because this craftsmen is only rated to around 70 ft/lbs which isn't really going to cut it in terms of wheel lugs.
if you want to go cheap you could also just get a very small fold up hand drill motor, break the lugs with a spanner and then spin em off quick with a $30 motor. I saw that in this months sportscar. This is the same thing I currently do but my drill motor was $300, I just happened to use that since I had it.