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Riding = it depends on your instructor. Some of them are complete bitches and want to fail people because they are mad that they don't have a bike.... or something... and others are teh win!
How difficult is it to pass the non-written motorcycle license exam?
As in, 'the behind the wheel' part at the dmv? Well, for some, it's pretty easy. For others, it's hard as hell; especially for the newer riders. A friend of mine had to take it again recently(court order) and passed it with flying colors. He used an '02 Honda vfr800. And those things are pretty huge and heavy.... well, he's been riding for 18+ years. It also depends on who the instructor is. The one at the dmv near my house is pretty strict and I've seen her and I've heard that she's failed a lot of people. Most people I know just take the MC safety course because to them, it's easier to pass than the 'behind the wheel' at the dmv test.