Why I used quick 'n easy wash because I was too lazy to get the hose out. I hear this stuffs




This towel is from target. It's their drying towel. I like a lot

Mezerna Final Polish II via rotary with a blue tufted finishing pad. I really like this polish. Really really really really really like it for a light polish. I also have Intensive polish but my car didn't really need anything more agressive. This is one of only a handful of times that I have used a rotary but I am finally getting skillful with it and it will eventually replace the porter cable dual action for me. It will most likely be used for liquid wax application and glaze application.






This is the freshly painted and repaired side. I only washed and put on the Meguiars #5 new car glaze. I did not want to polish since I didn't know how hard the paint is yet, and it really didn't need it as you can tell.



Last step product: Wolfgang sealant. Now, you can't tell much difference from the polishing pictures without any wax/sealant on it. That's normal really. 98% prep, 2% whatever you put on top of it.




Here is my dilema. The body color door inner is new. The matte black is the way the car came from the factory. Now I really like how it looked matte black--I think it looked cleaner and well, just more tied together. Not as much contrast. Should I say something to the bodyshop (which is a fairly large body shop so don't get the impression that it's just some guy trying to make ends meat, but still they are busy busy) when I take it in to get the rear door lock fixed, or just deal with it? I have a few other problems too that I will definitely ask to be fixed (the driver's door handle has a fairly large gouge in it and some residue that I cannot get off, and the mirror they replaced is all marred and scratched).

 

photoshop made some of my images small
hfjdaj;kfd;sa i heart this towel

 

I want you to detail my car

 

Where do you have running water in this weather ? You wash inside your garage? I need to wash!!

 

I used Protect-All quick 'n easy wash. Hoseless/Rinseless.

If the pictures aren't working for a few minutes it's because I'm replacing them with ones that photobucket won't have to resize ergo butcher.

 

I see compound.

Otherwise good.

I get to detail the Vigor this weekend, take the plates off, store it in the garage and put it up for sale.

Oh well, I'll have the Teg to do when I get it. h:

 

what can you recommend for me to remove the oxidation from my cf hood and bring back what shine it has left in it?

 

Medium polish and a wool pad. Then follow up with a light polish with a foam.

If that doesn't work, wet sand. h:

 

i need to do my car.

 

No.

http://autopia.org/forums/showthread...t=power+of+aio

But you could also try out paint cleaners from other manufacturers too.

http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguia...A-10&store=meg

http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguia...M-97&store=pro

http://www.mothers.com/products/

I've used the Meguiars Medallion paint cleaner and it works very well. I've used AIO but not for oxidation removal. I have used the meguiars body scrub and it works well, but it's kind of difficult to use (kind of like glue). If you can't find the Medallion (it is being discontinued because of the VOC laws) then I'd probably go with the body scrub. Haven't used the Mother's cleaner.

Wool pads are overkill. Plain and simple I have yet to encounter a car that needed a wool pad. The most agressive I have used is a fairly agressive polish with a yellow cutting pad on a rotary.



That car being the worst. And after half of the hood was done, I noticed that the polish wasn't doing much for it so I had to use paint cleaner anyway. So I started out with paint cleaner and then went to polish for the swirls and scratches.

But even with a wool pad I doubt that crap on the paint would have came off with just polish. Cleaners chemically "clean" oxidation, whereas polishes are abrassive and are meant more for paint correctin (swirls/scratches).