NickQ

By popular demand, I have Made a list of what I did to clean-up my engine bay. Hope it helps you out. =)

Then LS turbo

Now Swapped in a B18C




Besides the obvious swap from LS turbo to stock GSR

Removed

* AC (ALL components, wires, and lines)
* PS (ALL components, wires, and lines)
* Drag 3 turbo (and ALL components, wires, and lines) from the LS
* ITR radiator (replaced w/ stock civic radiator, and single Fal slimline fan)
* Washer fluid resivior
* Stereo circuit breaker

Relocated

* ALL wiring from wiring harness
-Wiring moved from on top and across fender well, to underneath chassis, and outside of the engine bay. Between the fender and engine bay.
* Headlight wiring
-For both sides, I cut the headlight wiring, and ran it through a little hole in the chassis behind the headlamp assembly. Then I connected the wiring using solderless butt connectors, then heat wrapped it with black heat wrap.
* Radiator catch can
-I took off the front facia, and attached the can to the center radiator support, on the passenger side in front of the radiator, using black gardener's plastic coated wire. All that was needed after that was a hose long enough to reach it.This will not affect cooling enough to even matter. I have not seen ANY rise in tempature.
* Brake booster vaccume hose and check valve
-I bought a line of hose long enough to run underneath the booster and up to the intake manifold (approx 24"). I then used a pair of pliers to rotate the fitting on the top of the intake manifold to face down to better hide the hose. Be careful while doing this as not to break it off. I have noticed that on some engines, it is almost impossible to move without breaking.
* ALL battery wiring
-I removed the battery and all mounting hardware. I moved all wiring behind the battery and underneath the mount. I ran the negative wire behind, and around the passenger side to the fender wall. I moved the positive power wire behind and underneath the battery. Then up to the fuse block. I moved the positive starter wire behind and underneath the battery, under the chassis, and to the starter. (see Replaced section for new wire treatment)
* ALL misc. motor wiring (including; distributor, O2 sensor, VTEC, and GSR intake secondary wiring)
-Heat wrapped, and moved as close to the motor, and under the intake manifold, as possible, using black zip-ties.
* Fuel injector wiring
-While fuel rail was off (see Painted section) I disconnected the injector wiring. I removed all of the stock heat wrap from the injector wiring, pulled out as much as I could through the harness, and re-wrapped it with heat wrap. This lengthened the wiring just enough. I then ran each wire and connector as follows: I ran the wire for cylinder #1 (going from left to right) through the 1 & 2 runner. #2 through the 2 & 3 runner. #3 through the 3 & 4 runner. #4 on the outside of the #4 runner.I put back on the fuel rail, leaving the wiring underneath, and plugged the injectors back in. You will have to spin the injectors so that the connector is pointing at the driver (kinda diagonal-right).

Replaced

* ITR radiator for smaller, stock radiator
* Top radiator bracket
-I removed the stock radiator bracket. I cut a short length of metal plumbers tape and bent it to shape. This is a lot smaller and, in my opinion, looks much better. Then I attached it in place of the original.
* STR oil cap for stock oil cap
* Battery terminals (my little secret . If you really want to know what terminals I used, PM me)
* ALL battery wiring
-I used 0 gauge, Stinger ground wire (completley covered in heat wrap) with stinger gold connectors on everything.
* ALL ground wires
-I used 0-4 gauge stinger ground wire, completley heat wrapped in black, with stinger gold conectors.
* Red 8mm spark plug wires for stock black wires

Painted

* Engine bay
* Valve cover (Complete Write-up: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=622687 )
* Spark plug wire cover
* Fuel Rail
* Fuel pressure regulator
* Cap on the passenger side of fuel rail
* VTEC solenoid
* Battery
* Battery hold down
* Master cylinder
* Clutch resivior bracket
* Intake manifold diaphram (top left)
* ALL motor mounts
* Exaust heat shield
* Radiator
* Radiator cap
* Radiator hold down bracket (see Replaced section)
* Hood latch (will not affect functionality)
* Tranny fluid line bracket (lower left)
* ALL brake lines
* ALL fuel lines

Materials used

* Paint
-Duplicolor 1200 degree engine enamel (satin black)
-Duplicolor black textureized paint (valve cover)
-Any Primer

* Paint stripping
-Aircraft paint remover (spray)
-GOOD pair of anti-corrosion gloves
-Fine grit wet sanding paper

* Wiring
-0 to 4 gauge Stinger ground wire
-Stinger gold wire connectors
-Black heat wrap
-Black electrical tape
-Black zip ties

* Misc.
-Metal plumbers tape
-Any masking tape for painting
-Simple Green spray for degreasing
-Hose from any auto parts store
-I replaced all nuts and bolts that I could with new, black ones from the hardware store


If you have any questions, feel free to PM me or email me @ NickQuisenberry@yahoo.com

Ryan Autry

Cleanest Engine Bay Eva!

Jngrbrdman

Oh... I don't know about that. My engine bay is pretty spotless. It may not have a new motor bolted into it, but its at least as clean as it was the day I picked it up over 4 1/2 years ago. Album here.

vassil3427

Hey Jngrbrdman, how'd you keep the heat shield so flawless?? Your engine bay looks beautiful...

Jngrbrdman

Good question. I think the secret to getting your engine bay to look good is to KEEP your engine bay looking good. I touch it up every couple weeks or so and do a full detail at least twice a year. Durring the show season I make sure I just stay on top of it.

As far as the heat shield goes... I don't know how it stays looking good. I am careful not to detail anything under the hood unless its all cool. Spraying water on a hot engine isn't a good idea. That may have saved my heat shield some grief. I just try to take care of it an be careful. My car is my showroom and my portfolio. Nobody will hire me to do anything for them if I can't keep my own car looking good. That sort of motivates me to keep it looking nice. ...that, and the fact that I'm a little obsessed about car care.

Ryan Autry

I don't want to take anything away from you engine bay. Because it's beautiful and very clean.

But, Nick has spent sooo much time on the little things in his engine bay. That's what sets his engine bay above the rest.

Look at the things his moved and relocated. That makes a huge difference. For example, not seeing the wiring harness or Vacuum lines. Moving his overflow tank, a slim line fan, etc. The little things.

Here are some updated pictures.

Ryan Autry

Look at how much time and effort he gave to make his battery "area" to look like this. Moving all the wires out of eyes view. Looming all the wires is just an extra step that he took that makes his engine bay better then the next.

NickQ

Thanks Ryan

madlow

Nice work! You must have done the majority of the cleaning while the engine was out, I'm assuming? And thanks for the write-up!

redgoober4life

Fawkin' autopian.