hey guys, I need help, I'm going to increase the redline of my F22c, I want to increase the redline to 9,000 rpm...any ECU/ Engine tuning you guys know?...even just to 8,800rpm will do....Any help will be appreciated! tnx!!

 

Why?

When you stroke a motor you increase the distance the piston has to move each cycle, 9,000 RPMs is...

Go buy an AP1 h:

 

While I'm probably going to regret asking... but why do you want to do this?

Honda increased the motor displacement to 2.2L by increasing the piston stroke and obviously they had concerns about the pistons moving that far at 9K to drop the redline...

 

n00bs.....:slap:

 

Drop an AP1 ECU into it with an eManage piggy back to set the limit and tune the fuel mix/timing. Some folks have been running this way for more than a year now without any issues.

I'll probably do mine over the winter. I've got the ECU and need to buy the Boomslang harness interface and the eManage Ultimate and sensor cables.

 

You dont even need the emanage. My best friend has an 02 that he hydrolocked with a CAI. The f22c had just come out so he opted for it as a replacement since insurance was paying for it. He left the stock ecu in and has been running it to 9K daily, problem free for over 2 years now. We used to run neck and neck with him usually pulling me by a nose but after that swap he stated putting 2 or 3 cars on me from a stop to 130, thats why i had to go turbo.


If you have an 04-05 just get the 02-03 ecu of your choice. Then take your car and the new ecu and go have a tech at honda reprogram that your key to that ecu. I have heard that you need the key from the other car as well, and i have also heard that some lock smiths can do it.

If you have a 06+ your only option is to send your ecu to hondata for a reflash.

 

why on gods green earth would you raise the redline past the performance of the cams. They stop making power and you are just reving it out to rev it out.

 

because kids want to blow up their cars h:

 

Not to be a bitch about it, or devil's advocate, but my understanding was that the F20C and F22C have very similar powerbands, most importantly that they begin to taper off after max hp and torque in a very similar way.

Whereas max hp is @ 8300rpm on the 2.0, but you shift at or just before 9k for the best acceleration (not so much in taller gears), the 2.2 makes max hp @ 7800rpm but redline is at 8k.

The point being that although you should respect the redline (and the limiter pretty much ensures it) on the F22C to prevent engine wear/damage, you could actually increase acceleration just a little by revving past the max hp by a little more, similar to the F20C.

I'm not saying it's worth the trouble, but in theory there's a small advantage to going past the rev limiter in at least the first couple gears, which is why some who race the AP2 raise the limiter (even with very limited mods).

just defending the indefensible h:

 

Yes, what should be compared is the acceleration you have the two neighboring gears (the one your in and the next one) to decide what rpm is best for shifting.

Mathematically speaking, you want to maximize the (sum of the) total area under the hp curve in each gear. If you shift too soon (e.g. exactly at the peak), you will loose area under the curve in the next gear due to being so far below the peak. Then to that math, factor in that each next gear is taller, so the weight of area under the curve of the lower gears counts for more.

And, unless you shift very quickly and with a lot of slip (which I've seen done), the AP2 drops out of VTEC in the 1-2 and also briefly again on the 2-3 (probably by honda's intentions to help save the diff).

So, after the shift not only are you at lower rpm that is far off the peak, you're in a taller gear, and you're no longer in VTEC.

This could be considerably mitigated by raising the rev limit a bit so you can shift later to (1) stay in the lower gear longer, (2) then at the shift be closer to the hp peak in the next gear, (3) as well as staying in VTEC on 1-2 and 2-3 even with mediocre shifting.

Also, as another alternative, lowering VTEC engagement alone would help keep that from dropping out, but you're still fighting the other two: taller gear, farther away from peak after shifting.

The hondata reflash does both: lower VTEC and raise rev limit, basically guaranteeing that you'll stay in VTEC, and allowing the driver more options regarding how high to wind it out.