Brembo Brekes kit for PRELUDE?
Hey, i've been searching online for brembo breaks does anybody know any good places to order from for prelude sh 01 and also what is the difference between slotted and drilled? Can just get the rotors or do i have to change the caliper too?
well a "big brake kit" is usually the whole shebang, calipers, rotors, and lines. they'll cost about 2,000 bucks to maybe 1400.
if you just want to change your rotors it should be about $60/wheel, so about 240 bucks. X-drilled/drilled rotors have holes drilled into them so they supposedly vent better. slots are rotors that have grooves milled into them for the same "purpose" but really it's all for show.
u don't have to change the caliper if you don't want to, and if you wanna ghettofab it, just paint your calipers red. also with a rotor upgrade don't expect more stopping power--that's affected by pad type and caliper size.
if you just want to change your rotors it should be about $60/wheel, so about 240 bucks. X-drilled/drilled rotors have holes drilled into them so they supposedly vent better. slots are rotors that have grooves milled into them for the same "purpose" but really it's all for show.
u don't have to change the caliper if you don't want to, and if you wanna ghettofab it, just paint your calipers red. also with a rotor upgrade don't expect more stopping power--that's affected by pad type and caliper size.
i would not recommend brembo from my experience
brembo simply takes oem rotors and cuts and drills them.
i had my front pair actually burn up, and i just changed them last week, i mean obviously slowing from 130 to 0 repeatedly while running from popo is going to work the brake system over but i didnt think they would start burning...
i will post picks of the warpage and burns on the rotor surface as soon as it is not friday night
lata
~boomer
brembo simply takes oem rotors and cuts and drills them.
i had my front pair actually burn up, and i just changed them last week, i mean obviously slowing from 130 to 0 repeatedly while running from popo is going to work the brake system over but i didnt think they would start burning...
i will post picks of the warpage and burns on the rotor surface as soon as it is not friday night

lata
~boomer
they warped because they were x-drilled and slotted.
my recommendation for non-OEM rotors is the brembo blanks, which are what companies like Rotora, Powerslot, et al use when they drill or slot the rotors.
no one has ever complained about the brembo blanks, because they're pretty straightforward and well made.
remember, slots and x-drilling just means theres that much less surface area for the pad, and that the integrity of the rotor has been compromised. also they eat pads much much faster. unless you're a showcar, or into blingin, stay away from em.
my recommendation for non-OEM rotors is the brembo blanks, which are what companies like Rotora, Powerslot, et al use when they drill or slot the rotors.
no one has ever complained about the brembo blanks, because they're pretty straightforward and well made.
remember, slots and x-drilling just means theres that much less surface area for the pad, and that the integrity of the rotor has been compromised. also they eat pads much much faster. unless you're a showcar, or into blingin, stay away from em.
better overall stopping power - you will need bigger rotors, but the bigger rotors mean that your tires become the weak point and you will start locking if you dont have abs.
less brake fade and slight improvement overall - good rotors and good pads that dont heat up as much and dont burn
ive been looking for the green stuff pads for my car but i only checked out one site so far and they only had 3g prelude pads available
sucks
~boomer
less brake fade and slight improvement overall - good rotors and good pads that dont heat up as much and dont burn

ive been looking for the green stuff pads for my car but i only checked out one site so far and they only had 3g prelude pads available
sucks
~boomer
Originally posted by fuhshietfu
So if i just get the rotors and the brake pads my breaking won't improve at all? i need to get the big brake kit to have braking improvements?
So if i just get the rotors and the brake pads my breaking won't improve at all? i need to get the big brake kit to have braking improvements?
to put it simply, if you want better braking but don't want to spend 1500 on a big kit, get good pads.
Originally posted by monkey
they warped because they were x-drilled and slotted.
my recommendation for non-OEM rotors is the brembo blanks, which are what companies like Rotora, Powerslot, et al use when they drill or slot the rotors.
no one has ever complained about the brembo blanks, because they're pretty straightforward and well made.
remember, slots and x-drilling just means theres that much less surface area for the pad, and that the integrity of the rotor has been compromised. also they eat pads much much faster. unless you're a showcar, or into blingin, stay away from em.
they warped because they were x-drilled and slotted.
my recommendation for non-OEM rotors is the brembo blanks, which are what companies like Rotora, Powerslot, et al use when they drill or slot the rotors.
no one has ever complained about the brembo blanks, because they're pretty straightforward and well made.
remember, slots and x-drilling just means theres that much less surface area for the pad, and that the integrity of the rotor has been compromised. also they eat pads much much faster. unless you're a showcar, or into blingin, stay away from em.
my boss drives a 911 with a supercharger, his stock rotors are gold (i think thats cadnium or something)
regardless
his rotors are cross drilled stock
as i understand it
cross drilling gives better heat disipation because it allows air to vent off the rotor surface and bottom of the pad thru the inside venting of the rotor. i guess it gives a through path for air
slotting is only effective on organic pads that produce gas when heated under extreme braking, because this gas will prevent the pad from effectively contacting the rotor surface at speed, kinda like hydroplaning but with gas.
any modification to the rotors thickness will obviously have negative effects on rotor strength
~boomer
regardless
his rotors are cross drilled stock
as i understand it
cross drilling gives better heat disipation because it allows air to vent off the rotor surface and bottom of the pad thru the inside venting of the rotor. i guess it gives a through path for air
slotting is only effective on organic pads that produce gas when heated under extreme braking, because this gas will prevent the pad from effectively contacting the rotor surface at speed, kinda like hydroplaning but with gas.
any modification to the rotors thickness will obviously have negative effects on rotor strength
~boomer
Originally posted by 4thGenReady2Go
it makes sense monkey, but then how does that explain why in race cars like CART they use cross-drilled rotors?
it makes sense monkey, but then how does that explain why in race cars like CART they use cross-drilled rotors?


