is it tru that if u have an intake u will have to reset the prelude comp every seven days for the intake to function at max power?

 

no.

 

Nope. Once is enough. you should reset it though every time you make a performance modification so your computer can fully benefit from the mods.

 

not really true. but you should read this...

http://www.ntpog.org/mods/fifth-afc/ecu.shtml

 

that's for all 1996+ vehicles, not just hondas, preludes, or whatever.

 

BBB, that's a really interesting article, but I have one question. If your computer ends up detecting these things and adjusting them to correct the "perceived problem" and you reset your
computer all the time to prevent it, then how will you ever benefit from any type of mod? when you erase the computer's memory it reverts to factory settings and doesn't perform as well for a few hundered miles. So if what this article is saying is true then we are all screwed and should not waste money modifiying our cars. what do you think? I'd really like to learn more about this

 

about wut lude behavior said- it does reset to factory settings but it also fails to recognize the mod for a couple hundred miles so it really restets to factroy intake + the mod that u have added. so i still dont know if its tru but believe me there is plenty of purpose to modding ur car.

 

false. when you clear the ecm, it gets reset to base fuel and ignition maps. as you drive, it constantly readjusts until optimum efficiency and lowest emissions are realised.

and even then, it's still constantly readjusting for ambient weather and atmospheric conditions.

so, in other words, you have to reset the ecu after installing any type of modification that can change the amount of air being ingested by the motor, but after that, the ecm reprograms on it's own. of course this is only applicable to 1996+ vehicles.

by pulling the fues and clearing the ecm all the time, you're just running a preprogrammed base fuel and ignition map that gives you minimal performance gain only provided by the new part, in this case being an AEM intake.

what people think is the opposite, mainly because the new noise tricks them into thinking the car is faster. realise that when you go wide open throttle, the ECM always changes over to a factory base fuel and ignition map, referred to as "open loop". only when you're cruising does the ECM run on "closed loop", where it's using all of the sensors to fine tune the fuel map.

 

ok drift so can u solve the question once and for all... is there any point to installing minor mods such as intakes or exhaust or are they just for show?

 

each part on their own are for show. altogether, boltons are necessary for future motor modification.

I/H/E is always the basic bolt on combo people go with. say if you were to change cams, the bolton combo would then become truly useful, but until then, the combo is pretty much useless, as the three together cost about $1000 for the top quality brand names, yet only yield ~10hp altogether. now with a set of stage 2 Crower cams and a valvetrain upgrade, you'll hit about 15hp... with the boltons, you could hit upwards of 20. with a computer upgrade to raise your rev limit, you are then able to really maximize the ability of the cams, giving you upwards of 25hp. with a good port and polish, you could conceivably hit 30hp with just cams and valvetrain.... but of course, it's half that without all the other addons.