I just scheduled mine like 10mins ago, $550+tax.

timing belt, power belt some other belt and water pump and something else.... just said "leave it all day"

 

Damn. Every other car I've had it was like $300 or so to change the belt. I 've had 2 break on me, (86 Dodge Daytona and 85 Honda Accord hatchback) didnt do anything. But at 75k-ish miles and I figure I should do it at 85k just to be safe....
I need to start saving now.

What else should I replace within the next year anyhow?

 

Prelude's have interference engines. I think all Hondas in the last 10 years are interference. The valves expand into the combustion chamber quite deep. If the belt breaks, the valves float without retracting (there is no belt to turn the cams while the crank is still turning at 3500 rpm). Those cams are reliant on the crank and belt to keep everything in perfect harmony. In a nutshell, when the belt breaks, the valves get the crap beat out of them. As well as the valve springs, pistons, and valve seats. IF you are lucky, you will just need to replace the head. Your old Dodge was a pushrod, and the old Accords didn't have current Honda head design. True, it is a drawback. But this head design is what enables Honda 4-cylinders (and this has nothing to do with VTEC) to have performance on par with domestic V6 motors. It's also a very efficient and clean burning way to combust fuel. I suppose Honda could have very easily used a chain in place of the belt and it would last twice as long. But it would be much less smooth, use more fuel, and have worse performance.

 

Great info - thanks

I thought there was a TSB for the auto-tensioner. I don't want to spend $550 for the timing belt and I get the same problem again because I didn't change out the auto-tensioner. If the auto-tensioner wasn't working probably, then the timing belt would be a little loose - could this be causing the grr sound. I searched the forum and it looks like its the auto-tensioner.

again thanks for all the help.