Oh sorry my compression ratio is 10.0:1 my bad but the type s pistons are 11:1

 

Aren't the JDM H22A pistons hyperecutic (high-pressure cast metal)?

If so, and you're adamant about running a 100-shot at 11:1, I would invest in forged rods and pistons. They will be much more resistant to detonation than an OEM cast piston.

Also, at that size shot, I would consider a direct-port nitrous setup or a much smaller dry shot if you go with the JDM BB6 pistons.

I popped an otherwise robust 2.0 16v MkII Golf motor by running a wet-fogger 75 shot with less than 10:1 CR. All it took was about 4 seconds of detonation [which I couldn't hear at speed] and the motor was done for. Holed pistons, burnt valves, the works.. it was ugly. h:

 

Just a note, forged internals require sleeving. Unless you want to go with the special Mahle pistons.

 

Duly noted.
IMHO, since the motor would be apart in any event, there's little harm in overbuilding the bottom end. h:

 

That also requires money and time that I dont have. I dont have another car besides the lude and have to have a way to get to and from school.

Although I would love to do that just not anough of anything yet.

 

Gotcha.

I may be too risk-averse for my own good, but if you're shooting for 290 on the bottle, I'd save up, [over]build it once and build it right. h:

My 2.7¥.

 

I agree (Minus the yuan part)
If you're heavily dependent on your car, I would stay away from nitrous and high compression.