help on the compression numbers
Thats what most stock h23a, f22b and h22a engines are which technically that is why insurance is so high on the preludes, because they are considered high compressed engines. However don't run forced induction applications on this high of a compression unless you have done some serious internal work. I got my lude up to 195 in compression but in order to do that you have to do some serious percise tuning that will take some time. All the compression test really shows to the avid tuner is that their engine is in good shape and for you 175 is right where you want to be, unless you did some internal work such as high compression forged pistons, camshafts, rings, rods, bore out the motor, etc. Then you would be a little worried still running that sort of psi. to each chamber. However if you are running almost the exact same psi. in each cylinder and it appears a little low than the engine just needs some good tuning to get that number up. If it's running low in like maybe 1 or 2 cylinders than something is giving out in the engine. Take my advice people quit turbo/super charging your ludes unless you have put some money in the internals of the engine because it is A. pointless because you won't be able to run enough boost to move any faster than you would with your timing advanced 2 degrees, which incase you didn't already know advancing your timing on any forced induction car is a NO-NO. and B. You wont have your lude for very long so enjoy boosting for the day because you never know how long;I mean short that is going to last on the stock lude engines. Most people who are really serious about throwing a turbo or super-charger on there lude generally loose interest once they see the end cost on what it will take to keep the engine running for a long time instead of the price of just the turbo kit which is already rediculous enough; so they normally go out and either get the kit thinking they will be one of the lucky ones, and blow there engine in a month or just end up buying a new car like a 1st gen talon, eclipse, which are 135psi. engines but are made for the purpose of boost. sorry about the length of this everyone but I'm sick of hearing about people shooting pistons through there heads because they think ludes can handle over 7lbs of boost later luders.
Hey thanks for the advice bro. I'm just looking to swap the motor into my ek9. Turbo will come after once I get the findings. I was planning to get forge pistons, cams, crank shaft, sleeves the block, after market valves, thicker head gasket, and shit I think that’s about it.
Thats what most stock h23a, f22b and h22a engines are which technically that is why insurance is so high on the preludes, because they are considered high compressed engines. However don't run forced induction applications on this high of a compression unless you have done some serious internal work. I got my lude up to 195 in compression but in order to do that you have to do some serious percise tuning that will take some time. All the compression test really shows to the avid tuner is that their engine is in good shape and for you 175 is right where you want to be, unless you did some internal work such as high compression forged pistons, camshafts, rings, rods, bore out the motor, etc. Then you would be a little worried still running that sort of psi. to each chamber. However if you are running almost the exact same psi. in each cylinder and it appears a little low than the engine just needs some good tuning to get that number up. If it's running low in like maybe 1 or 2 cylinders than something is giving out in the engine. Take my advice people quit turbo/super charging your ludes unless you have put some money in the internals of the engine because it is A. pointless because you won't be able to run enough boost to move any faster than you would with your timing advanced 2 degrees, which incase you didn't already know advancing your timing on any forced induction car is a NO-NO. and B. You wont have your lude for very long so enjoy boosting for the day because you never know how long;I mean short that is going to last on the stock lude engines. Most people who are really serious about throwing a turbo or super-charger on there lude generally loose interest once they see the end cost on what it will take to keep the engine running for a long time instead of the price of just the turbo kit which is already rediculous enough; so they normally go out and either get the kit thinking they will be one of the lucky ones, and blow there engine in a month or just end up buying a new car like a 1st gen talon, eclipse, which are 135psi. engines but are made for the purpose of boost. sorry about the length of this everyone but I'm sick of hearing about people shooting pistons through there heads because they think ludes can handle over 7lbs of boost later luders.
How would this have any effect on the insurance rates?
Insurance rates are based upon other stuff, like body-type, engine SIZE, Horsepower, rarity, etc...
To my knowledge, a Talon TSi, or galant VR-4(with it's low-compression, turbo-friendly pistons) is more expensive than a prelude on insurance...
Also, you say you got your compression test numbers up to 195 by "serious, precise tuning". How did you do this...
The compression ratio, which determines the compression tests' numbers, is based upon internal engine dimensions (piston dome, bore, stroke), so I'm curious how you "precisly tuned" your engine? You would have to tear it down and replace anything that is worn (ie piston rings)...
Again, I'm not trying to flame you at all, I just find it interesting that you gave these reasons...
Later man


