cyclops755

I need to clean out my intake manifold because the deposits inside are throwing a CEL saying my EGR valve is bad. I've had it checked out, and I was told that the valve would most likly hold up if all of the passages inside the intake were cleaned out well. I've got the Helm's manual and such, and so this evening I thought I'd start tearing into it. When I looked at the diagram though, the bottom half of the manifold (which bolts to the block) seems NEARLY impossible to get off without removing the engine in order to get to the bolts on the bottom of the manifold. Would it be safe to take the top of the manifold off and clean it out, and then to shoot a little carb cleaner down into the manifold passages and scrub them out with a bendable brush? I'm not to keen on this idea cause I don't really want all that crap to fall into the engine, but I don't know of how else to do it.... Help? Advice? thanks.

F22B Prelude

Either clean out the EGR, or get a new one......you can also use some Seafoam and spray into the PCV Valve.

asheylarry

the seafoam shit works pretty good.... you might try pulling the egr valve off and running a coat hanger or something through the egr passages in the manifold to bust that shit out of there. you will want to clean all those chunks of carbon out of the manifold after you knock them off. also clean the egr valve.. as for the removal of the manifold. you will need a childs sized arm because without a hoist, getting the lower bolts and the brackets off will be a BIG pain in the sack. ive done two heads on the integras, and i thought that the intake manifold was the hardest part. the bolts on the bottom are very trick to get.

cyclops755

That's what I figured. I've already taken the EGR valve off once and tried to clean it, and the engine threw a code again. The service dept. said the vavle should still be functional though... What is this seafoam stuff, and where can I get it? Also, you're saying that I should take the top half of the intake manifold and EGR off and poke around in there with the bottom half still on to clean it out? Just want to be clear.

F22B Prelude

Seafoam can be bought at Autozone, Pepboys...etc

I would buy a new EGR if its still throwing a code, they go for around $75

mybluelude

You will also need a new gasket set if you do ant disassembly on the intake.

Mkazm83

Id try Seafoam first, since its low cost and relatively easy to administer. http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm Just follow the directions carefully.

asheylarry

here is what i would do since pulling the intake is going to be a biatch. i would remove the throttle plate. then i would removed the egr. then i would take a coat hanger or wire and run it into the egr passage and make sure that the wire went all the way into the intake manifold.. if it went all the way through, you will be able to see the wire from the opening were the throttle assembly was. try and do it this way first. removal of the manifold should be your last resort, but sometimes you have to. now, if the egr passage has curves in it, then you might have to use a thinner wire. make sure the passage is clear. if the passage is clear then your egr valve is defective remember that the function of the egr is to send exhaust gases back into the manifold, so the the design is pretty simple: egr valve opens and allows exhaust gas into manifold via egr passage in the manifold. for the system to work properly passage must be free of obstruction and valve must have free movment.

cyclops755

F22b Prelude, where are you getting that number from? Pepboys tried to charge me $160.... Thanks for all the advice everyone.

PoloBoy

Ok go to a honda dealership or somewhere similar and buy an induction flush $125-160 dollars depending on how much they try to rip you off or do this.

Clean the crap out yourself, the bolts arent as hard as they appear first un-hook all hoses and drain coolant, then release gas pressure by un-tightening the realease bolt on the drivers side of the fuel rail or by simply loosening the gas cap and taking it off, now remove all coolant hoses and take off the fuel filter-fuel rail hose, unbolt the three bolts that hold down fuel rail and injectors, then unbolt the two bolts on the drivers side of the intake manifold that hold the wire harnesses/hose harnesses to that side of the manifold now you can pull the fuel rail and move it out of the way (be careful not to lose any rubber grommets/washers to the fuel injectors or you'll be buying new injectors" now get under the car and loosen the bolt that holds the bottom of the intake manifold to the chassis bracket for the manifold to stay sturdy on.
Now un-bolt the four bolts to the throttle body that connect to the top shell of the intake manifold,assuming you have already taken off the intake pipe, carefully remove the throttle body without bending or mangling the throttle cable. Once you have removed the throttle body just bring it back closer to the middle of the intake manifold shell, now you can simply disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle rotor by pushing the lock pin out of the throttle rotor slot-lock. carefully move the throttle cable to the side withouth bending or pulling on it and keep it out of the way till your ready to re-install the throttle body. now depending on how patient you are with yourself you can do one of a few things
1). un-bolt the top shell and Idle Air Boost middle pressure sleeve from the bottom piece of the intake manifold and simply place those two items on the side to be cleaned when time comes
2). or if you that sounds like too much work go ahead and try to get the bolts from the head to intake manifold off so you can take it all out at once, goodluck with that especially if you dont know when the last time someone took the manifold off if ever.
3). go with 1). its the easier of the two approaches not to mention you got to take the shell and sleeve off eventually if your really going to do the job you intended too (clean the entire intake manifold)

WHATEVER YOU DO DON"T WASTE YOUR TIME TAKING OF THE ENTIRE HEAD TO THE ENGINE FOR SOMETHING THIS STUPID YOU WILL MESS SOMETHING UP IF YOUR AN AVID TUNER WITH NO EXPERIENCE!!!

now that everything is off take your time with cleaning all four of the manifold pieces trust me its worth it especially if emissions is coming up or if your like me and power is priority!

Use wire tip brushes to help you use degreaser the best is engine brite or carb cleaner but grocery brands work too such as 409 and grease lightning.

Clean the throttle body and throttle plate inside of it as well as the heater valve under it
Clean the top intake manifold shell, use q-tips for all hose outlet points clean it till the inside is as silver as...well silver.
Clean the IAB sleeve that is inbetween the top shell and bottom piece of the intake manifold, clean that thing as best you can q-tips brushes ect. trust me everything comes off if you want it too but don't bend or mess up the IAB valve "all the 4 chambers than have rotors that open and close"
Now clean the easiest part the bottom piece that bolts to the engine block you can put degreaser in there and take a really soft sponge and just wipe all around then spray out with a hose.

now for the really fun and most crucial part: INSTALLATION
Dont get lazy now you need to install everything correctly and torque down all bolts to spec maybe a little more than spec depending on how old they are but however you decide torque evenly or u will have air leaks

By the way did i mention your supposed to buy a new throttle body gasket, intake manifold gasket, etc. no I didn't because if your like me and you do this enough because perfect is impossible dont waste your money unless the existing gasket is ripped, torn, burned, non-existant, etc. then you have my approval to go purchase those gaskets. However if you have them and they are in decent to good shape still then use some high head waterproof ultra blue/ultra black/silicone of some type and just thread all bolts and all mating surfaces of sensors/manifold pieces with a thin but even layer of these sealants. In my opinion if you do it correctly no gasket you purchase will be as air tight than this method not to mention it will cost 6 bux at the most.

I'm not going to go step by step buy basically hook the bottom part of the manifold onto the block first, once that is on correctly put the IAB sleeve on next, then the Intake manifold top shell piece, then throttle cable to throttle body, then throttle body to intake manifold, all sensors to the manifold, fuel rail, fuel injector wire harness/heat protector, all hose/wire brackets, connect all coolant lines, connect fuel rail-fuel filter banjo hose, all vacuum lines in correct places, re-connect all sensors (don't forget the one on the IAB solenoid valve/IAB tank underneath the manifold that is bolted on by two 10mm.bolts it also has a connector that needs to be connected or your check engine light will stay on, bolt the bracket bolt to intake manifold underneath the car in then just double check everything if its all correct to the best of your knowl...wait (diagrams) then go ahead and start it up you may need to adjust idle since it's moving much better throughout the manifold and you may need to re-adjust the throttle cable to your happy spot other than that goodluck and take your time if its your first time, because you will get irritant haha