their is a problem with the engine mount hitting the body take it to a dealer the is a lot of bulletins on front end noises from the crvs

 

Is there a (free) list of these bulletins anywhere? Besides the dealer.

 

berginr: I sent you a message.

I received the new endlinks and will replace those again because one is making some noise when I move it with my hand. If these fix it and they only last as long as the other ones, I'll have to go back to OEMs for $35 a piece!

I'm trying to get my wife to trade this on a new one-those look sharp, but she only drives a manual tranny! Did I read the option list correctly, only an automatic available?

 

Replaced them and the clunk is gone, we'll see how long it lasts this time.

 

So, I guess the last set of end links did the trick?

Did you buy the first set on ebay? The second set also?

I've had no problems whatsoever with the set that I purchased from www.foreigncarpartsonline.com and they've been on there for around six months. I also know they'll be easier to remove than the OEM's since there's a nut to put a wrench on.

 

I didn't write down what type the first set was, but I have Kralyn ones on there now. I think I got them from Autohaus AZ. And the first set was from BMA??
If these go bad ( installed 11/06-now 2/07), I will definetly just get Honda OEM ones.

 

This time after driving through days worth of severly rutted snowy roads, my wifes CRV sounded like the front end was going to rattle off. A slight push and pull on the upper knuckle and there was alittle play in the upper ball joint. I washed the car and waited for the new UCA to arrive. I figured I would get the windshield replaced since she couldn't drive it anyway. Clunk was gone when driving to the shop and back. When I got back home I was contemplating whether to just change the oil and leave the UCA for warmer weather, since it wasn't clunking. I jacked it up, pulled on the upper knuckle again and there was a whole lot of play. The water must have gotten in the boot and froze the joint just enough to not clunk when I drove it (?), but it was definetly shot. A couple hours later the new UCA was installed. Drives nice again.

I installed the joint with the two mounting bolts slightly loose, installed the ball joint (tightened) and tire (tightened), lowered it to the ground, then final tightened the mounting bolts. Is this the correct way to "load" the UCA on these? I really don't want to replace the UCA because the bushings are shot because I tightened it wrong.

 

I guess you can do it that way but I usually just position my floor jack under the lower arm and raise it until the vehicle starts to rise off the jack stands.

Then I torque the bolts/nuts to spec.

I replaced the UCA and tie rod end dust boots on my '98 V last Spring. The UCA balljoint was still tight in its socket.