1st gear trouble
Originally posted by JimBlake
Ummm I bet 1st has a synchro & reverse doesn't.
On my '95 & on almost every car I've ever owned, 1st has a synchro but reverse doesn't. The synchro is what blocks you out of gear. Since reverse doesn't have a synchro it grinds if you try with the clutch engaged.
Ummm I bet 1st has a synchro & reverse doesn't.
On my '95 & on almost every car I've ever owned, 1st has a synchro but reverse doesn't. The synchro is what blocks you out of gear. Since reverse doesn't have a synchro it grinds if you try with the clutch engaged.
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DB Squad
Integra Forum Moderator
2016 BMW 340i M-Sport / 2013 Chevrolet Volt / 1999 Subaru Impreza RS EJ205
DB Squad
Integra Forum Moderator
2016 BMW 340i M-Sport / 2013 Chevrolet Volt / 1999 Subaru Impreza RS EJ205
Try this...
Put the trans in neutral, engine idling. Engage the clutch - that means take your foot off the pedal.
Try to shift into each forward gear. Don't force it in. The synchro will prevent you from pushing the lever all the way into gear. If the synchro is weak you can push thru it & get it to grind. Don't try to put it in reverse, 'cause there's nothing to stop you & it'll just grind.
Now push (not too hard) against one of the synchros & then disengage the clutch. When the input shaft spins down to a stop, the synchro will let you into gear. That's how it's supposed to work... A weak synchro will let you push into gear before the input shaft is completely stopped.
Put the trans in neutral, engine idling. Engage the clutch - that means take your foot off the pedal.
Try to shift into each forward gear. Don't force it in. The synchro will prevent you from pushing the lever all the way into gear. If the synchro is weak you can push thru it & get it to grind. Don't try to put it in reverse, 'cause there's nothing to stop you & it'll just grind.
Now push (not too hard) against one of the synchros & then disengage the clutch. When the input shaft spins down to a stop, the synchro will let you into gear. That's how it's supposed to work... A weak synchro will let you push into gear before the input shaft is completely stopped.
well in that theory that you have going there, you absolutely cannot grind a gear except reverse. is this right or wrong. im no pro on trannies or the workings of them but i was just stating stuff that i had heard from mechanics and the like. and also when my slave went out i ofcoarse had to rev match my gears and grind like hell. but from a stop i would ofcoarse tey and put it into first and it wouldnt be in gear but it would start pulling my car forwards. why did it do this. and also why did i grind with the clutch engaged. why can you not take your chifter out of gear when you are in gear and you push the accelerator. just a few questions for someone to answer for me to learn.
Originally posted by 93HybridCX
I had a 91 ls teg and when my race clutch started to go my car would not go into 1st or reverse without force. I put a new clutch in it and the problem went away. So I am like 99 percent sure its your clutch.
I had a 91 ls teg and when my race clutch started to go my car would not go into 1st or reverse without force. I put a new clutch in it and the problem went away. So I am like 99 percent sure its your clutch.
Originally posted by pomansouth
well in that theory that you have going there, you absolutely cannot grind a gear except reverse... just a few questions for someone to answer for me to learn.
well in that theory that you have going there, you absolutely cannot grind a gear except reverse... just a few questions for someone to answer for me to learn.
In real life, you can push hard enough against the synchro, and it will let you engage the gears before their revs are perfectly matched. That's when it grinds. As the synchro wears out, gets weaker, you don't have to push real hard to push thru & grind. I'm sure with the diameter & surface area of the cones, a synchro can be designed stronger or weaker. They wear out, too. That's why they don't all act exactly alike.
If you're in gear and accelerating, the forces on the gearset keep you from shifting out of that gear. That should still be the same without synchros, like in reverse.
When you shift normally, you disengage the clutch so the input shaft is coasting. When your slave went out, you couldn't disengage your clutch. So when you try to shift, the synchro isn't strong enough to force your engine to match revs. If you push against the synchro & wait until IT LETS YOU IN, it won't grind. So if it grinds, that just means you didn't really match revs accurately.
Originally posted by JimBlake
Ummm I bet 1st has a synchro & reverse doesn't.
On my '95 & on almost every car I've ever owned, 1st has a synchro but reverse doesn't. The synchro is what blocks you out of gear. Since reverse doesn't have a synchro it grinds if you try with the clutch engaged.
Ummm I bet 1st has a synchro & reverse doesn't.
On my '95 & on almost every car I've ever owned, 1st has a synchro but reverse doesn't. The synchro is what blocks you out of gear. Since reverse doesn't have a synchro it grinds if you try with the clutch engaged.
Originally posted by JimBlake
I'm just saying that's how it's supposed to work. You can think of the synchros 2 different ways. The synchro is supposed to block you out of gear until the gears are spinning the same speed. At the same time, the synchro is like it's own little clutch. When you're pushing against the synchro it's trying to spin the input shaft up or down to match the output. Once they match it lets you in.
In real life, you can push hard enough against the synchro, and it will let you engage the gears before their revs are perfectly matched. That's when it grinds. As the synchro wears out, gets weaker, you don't have to push real hard to push thru & grind. I'm sure with the diameter & surface area of the cones, a synchro can be designed stronger or weaker. They wear out, too. That's why they don't all act exactly alike.
If you're in gear and accelerating, the forces on the gearset keep you from shifting out of that gear. That should still be the same without synchros, like in reverse.
When you shift normally, you disengage the clutch so the input shaft is coasting. When your slave went out, you couldn't disengage your clutch. So when you try to shift, the synchro isn't strong enough to force your engine to match revs. If you push against the synchro & wait until IT LETS YOU IN, it won't grind. So if it grinds, that just means you didn't really match revs accurately.
I'm just saying that's how it's supposed to work. You can think of the synchros 2 different ways. The synchro is supposed to block you out of gear until the gears are spinning the same speed. At the same time, the synchro is like it's own little clutch. When you're pushing against the synchro it's trying to spin the input shaft up or down to match the output. Once they match it lets you in.
In real life, you can push hard enough against the synchro, and it will let you engage the gears before their revs are perfectly matched. That's when it grinds. As the synchro wears out, gets weaker, you don't have to push real hard to push thru & grind. I'm sure with the diameter & surface area of the cones, a synchro can be designed stronger or weaker. They wear out, too. That's why they don't all act exactly alike.
If you're in gear and accelerating, the forces on the gearset keep you from shifting out of that gear. That should still be the same without synchros, like in reverse.
When you shift normally, you disengage the clutch so the input shaft is coasting. When your slave went out, you couldn't disengage your clutch. So when you try to shift, the synchro isn't strong enough to force your engine to match revs. If you push against the synchro & wait until IT LETS YOU IN, it won't grind. So if it grinds, that just means you didn't really match revs accurately.


