What mods should i look into getting
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 17
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From: charlotte, nc
and i would love to keep everything AEM. i do not really know to much abou fuel systems and such so all the help i can get cus i need it. i want to do a lot to this car but there are not to many ppl were i live that know what they are doing, so if someone can just help me with telling me or suggstions and such, much thanx.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2003
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Advance timing to 18 deg. BTDC and replace your distributor cap, plug wires, maybe rotor to get the most out of your spark. Plugs too. You might get 2-4 whp out of timing advance and plugs. Replacing worn parts may find hp that you've lost. I found a few lost ponies from replacing the distributor cap.
Have you put springs, struts and an ITR swaybar on the list, along with better brake pads and fluid?
Have you put springs, struts and an ITR swaybar on the list, along with better brake pads and fluid?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: charlotte, nc
ok, so is turbo the only way i should go? cus i don't want to invest in new headers, cat, manifold, and sutff if i have to change them for a turbo. but as for now i am not getting a turbo tomorrow, but down the road one day. So what should i get to improve speed and hp for now???
inside of your radio
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 109
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From: dallas,texas
you could get your flywheel lightened, i think that you can get that done at a machine shop for cheap. maybe while you have that opened up get an aftermarket clutch, it is a 95, the clutch may be looking to jump-ship anyway.
Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 64
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From: Wisconsin
I'm installing my 7lb flywheel and stage 2 clutch tomarrow. I wouldn't get your flywheel lightened. Only because Honda made it 18lbs, they didn't make it 7lbs for a reason. If you are removing material from an existing part (flywheel in this case) you are taking away from its stability. Buy a lightened flywheel that is already meant to be 8-9lbs. Just my opinion though.
If you want to start getting ready for turbo and want to get some power gains now, here's what you can do (also happens to be what I'm doing right now): Get your top end done. Meaning, take off you head (if you don't know how to do this, buy a Hanes or Chilton manual, it'll walk you through, and have a friend who has done it before handy) and send it to a machine shop to have it ported, polished, and get a valve job. You'll need a 3-angle valve job done on the intake side (5-angle isn't needed, and sometimes isn't as good for intake) and a full radius valve job on the exhaust (full radius is best for exhaust because of the way the exhaust gasses flow, but I won't get into the physics of it here). Now, make sure that your head is straight, if it isn't, you'll need to get it milled (cheap, very cheap), but not too much! Just enough to straighten it. An more, you'll be raising compression, which is good for more power, but bad for tubo applications.
Next, get your intake manifold ported and matched to your head. Get a 68mm or 70mm throttle body. You'll need some injectors too. RC 450cc injectors would be great, because when you get your turbo, you'll have enough fuel to go with all that air (too much air + not enough fuel = lean mixture = blown motor = bad).
Port and Polish + Valve Job + Mill = about $600 - $900, depending on the machine shop.
Port matched Intake = About $100 - $150
Injectors = $250 - $300
Throttle Body = $250 - $350
All these things can be done at different times, and are great for turbo applications. Valve train might be your next project, so you can put some monster cams in there. With these things that I've discussed, you'd be looking at at LEAST 50 horsepower at the wheels. Huge jump for a car with about 100-110. You'll be running with ITR's in no time!
If you want to start getting ready for turbo and want to get some power gains now, here's what you can do (also happens to be what I'm doing right now): Get your top end done. Meaning, take off you head (if you don't know how to do this, buy a Hanes or Chilton manual, it'll walk you through, and have a friend who has done it before handy) and send it to a machine shop to have it ported, polished, and get a valve job. You'll need a 3-angle valve job done on the intake side (5-angle isn't needed, and sometimes isn't as good for intake) and a full radius valve job on the exhaust (full radius is best for exhaust because of the way the exhaust gasses flow, but I won't get into the physics of it here). Now, make sure that your head is straight, if it isn't, you'll need to get it milled (cheap, very cheap), but not too much! Just enough to straighten it. An more, you'll be raising compression, which is good for more power, but bad for tubo applications.
Next, get your intake manifold ported and matched to your head. Get a 68mm or 70mm throttle body. You'll need some injectors too. RC 450cc injectors would be great, because when you get your turbo, you'll have enough fuel to go with all that air (too much air + not enough fuel = lean mixture = blown motor = bad).
Port and Polish + Valve Job + Mill = about $600 - $900, depending on the machine shop.
Port matched Intake = About $100 - $150
Injectors = $250 - $300
Throttle Body = $250 - $350
All these things can be done at different times, and are great for turbo applications. Valve train might be your next project, so you can put some monster cams in there. With these things that I've discussed, you'd be looking at at LEAST 50 horsepower at the wheels. Huge jump for a car with about 100-110. You'll be running with ITR's in no time!