brake problems
driving the 94 gsr around and i step on the brakes at a stop sign and the brake pedal sinks all the way to the floor and the brakes don't work at all till im pressing it as hard as i can. for the rest of my drive this keeps up at random times works fine then acts up again so i get home tell the parents and they take it over to the dealer the next day. well we get it back and the dealer installed new rotors and i think pads charged 600 for it my parents are all pissed they say i wore down the brakes twice as fast as they should have. well i get it out the next day and it's still doing the same damn thing. anybody ahve any suggestions as to waht this is nething could help.
lol dealerships never cease to amaze me with thier BS.
I would seriously tell them that they ****ed up in fixing the problem, and that they need to either replace the master cylinder, check the ****ing brake boost lines, and rebleed everything.
****ING DEALERSHIPS.
I would seriously tell them that they ****ed up in fixing the problem, and that they need to either replace the master cylinder, check the ****ing brake boost lines, and rebleed everything.
****ING DEALERSHIPS.
Holy shit.... not only did they overcharge you around... $200 dollars, but they completely misdiagnosed the problem. With a complete sink to the floor, I'd say master brake cylinder, but lack of fluid could also do it (I don't think it could be the boost lines with a complete sink to the floor).
Hell, I'd yell and scream at them. Well, not quite, but I'd make them take money off for so missing what could be a VERY DANGEROUS failure. If your master cylinder goes out while you're driving, like in an emergency stop situation on the freeway, you could get into a serious accident.
Though, before I continue... check the brake booster. With the car completely off, pump the brake until it's completely firm (5 pumps). Then, with pressure on the brake, start the car. The pedal should drop an inch or so. If it doesn't drop or goes all the way down, the booster could be at fault too.
Anyways, what you should do is call around to a couple dealership-alternative shops in the area, and get price quotes on a master cylinder replacement. Should run about $300 with all new OE parts. (~200 for the part, plus hour&half labor to replace it and flush the system). Find a good reputable shop that isn't a dealership, and go there. Avoid dealership repair unless your car is under warranty...
Hell, I'd yell and scream at them. Well, not quite, but I'd make them take money off for so missing what could be a VERY DANGEROUS failure. If your master cylinder goes out while you're driving, like in an emergency stop situation on the freeway, you could get into a serious accident.
Though, before I continue... check the brake booster. With the car completely off, pump the brake until it's completely firm (5 pumps). Then, with pressure on the brake, start the car. The pedal should drop an inch or so. If it doesn't drop or goes all the way down, the booster could be at fault too.
Anyways, what you should do is call around to a couple dealership-alternative shops in the area, and get price quotes on a master cylinder replacement. Should run about $300 with all new OE parts. (~200 for the part, plus hour&half labor to replace it and flush the system). Find a good reputable shop that isn't a dealership, and go there. Avoid dealership repair unless your car is under warranty...
ther is a very simpe problem that could be happening.
you could have air in the brake lines.
you will need a person to help you.
so bleed the lines. open your master cylendar, your also going to need to take off each one of your tires, at the same time or independently is your choice.
behind the caliper you will find a little valve, if you open this it allows brake flued to leave the lines.
while the car is off pump the brake 5-10 times and open the valve, brake fluid should sqirt out, it may spay to start, that would be the air mixed in as well, then close the valve.
continue this until it spurts a steady stream.
then check the master cyendar and fill it if necisary.
do this to all of the wheels and brakes should be very firm.
you could have air in the brake lines.
you will need a person to help you.
so bleed the lines. open your master cylendar, your also going to need to take off each one of your tires, at the same time or independently is your choice.
behind the caliper you will find a little valve, if you open this it allows brake flued to leave the lines.
while the car is off pump the brake 5-10 times and open the valve, brake fluid should sqirt out, it may spay to start, that would be the air mixed in as well, then close the valve.
continue this until it spurts a steady stream.
then check the master cyendar and fill it if necisary.
do this to all of the wheels and brakes should be very firm.
Originally posted by thx247
lol dealerships never cease to amaze me with thier BS.
I would seriously tell them that they ****ed up in fixing the problem, and that they need to either replace the master cylinder, check the ****ing brake boost lines, and rebleed everything.
****ING DEALERSHIPS.
lol dealerships never cease to amaze me with thier BS.
I would seriously tell them that they ****ed up in fixing the problem, and that they need to either replace the master cylinder, check the ****ing brake boost lines, and rebleed everything.
****ING DEALERSHIPS.
Is the master cylinder cap sealed properly? Dust can build up around the rim and when you open and close the cap a few times dirt can get in there and cause an improper seal. Fluid could leak out and air and moisture can seep into the reservoir.


