So I've heard this, that, and everything else on how important it is to spend an afternoon on a dyno when putting together a turbo kit. My question is, what exactly would I be looking for or adjusting?

I'm planning on getting a greddy bolt on kit, and i'm looking for a turbo MAP sensor. So runnin a stock ecu (98 RS, obdII?), anything else I need?

thanks!

 

First off: the stock MAP sensor is capable of reading up to about 12 psi, which is already a lot more boost than the GReddy kit will put out without adding a boost controller. The limiting factor in dealing with boost is the ECU itself, not the MAP sensor.

When you get your car tuned on a dyno basically what they do is stick a wideband oxygen sensor up your tailpipe which gives a readout of the air/fuel ratios in relation to RPM. They then use whatever tuning device you have installed (S-AFC, Hondata, AEM EMS, Haltech, MoTeC, etc...) to adjust things like fuel injector duty cycle to get your a/f ratio nice and evened out across the rev range.

The GReddy bolt-on kit includes a "black box" that messes around with your stock ECU to get enough fuel into the motor. There's not really a provision for any further tuning of the a/f ratios. It's more a sort of bolt-on-and-forget-it proposition than anything else. That said, it won't run that bad without tuning since GReddy has done most of the work for you.

If you want to do it "right," you'll need a turbo kit that includes an intercooler, higher flow-rate fuel injectors, perhaps an upgraded fuel pump, and at the very least an S-AFC to tune it all. But that's significantly more of an investment than just buying the GReddy kit.

Pretty much it comes down to how much money you want to spend and how much power you're trying to make.

 

The wideband 02 sensors I've been investigating actually are installed in place of your normal 02 sensor, and hook up to a controller box.

Is the "sniffer" they hook up at dyno time, the same thing? Maybe the direct plug-in one is just do to the fact you are doing it mobile?

Generally when people talk about dyno tuning, they refrence two sensors. Lambad, and O2 is it? I dunno, what is the other sensor?

-PHiZ

 

Wouldn't taking the O2 sensor out cause the car to not run properly?

 

No.

The wideband 02 is, like he says, placed where the stock 02 sensor bung is. Its the same thing has having the stock 02 sensor in terms of how the car reacts.

If you were to take the 02 sensor out and not replace it with anything, yes, you would have not only a missing 02 sensor, but also an open bung.

 

I see, so does the controller box connect to your ECU in order for the ECU to get a good reading?

 

I did a little research on this, and here is a quick wrap-up of what I found.

There are 2 main brands of wideband o2 sensors, Bosch, and NGK, the NGK was found in certain low-emission hondas, and can be ordered as an OEM part, however supply has recently been curtailed, and they are hard to get.

You need a controller to access these five-wire O2 sensors, this converts the signal into a usable signal, and also HEATS the o2 sensor, this sensors are active and have an internal heating elemant for their operation.

The controller will give you outputs of two types
WideBand:

Narrowband:


As you can see, Wideband is a linearly output 0-5 volt signal, suitable for gauges, etc. (I THINK this is what aftermarket units (hondata, etc.) tap into.

Narrowband output is I THINK what you would feed your ECU.

So here is your scenario, you have the Wideband 02 sensor in the stock location (pre cat, but far enough from the primaries to not exceeding the sensors safe operating temperature), the 5-wires run to the Wideband controller, where you take the wideband output out to your display device, and feed the narrowband back to you ecu.

-PHiZ

 

bingo!