Power Window Broken
11-20-2009, 09:07 AM
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Power Window Broken
About 6 months ago the driver's side power window quit working on my 1998 Integra LS. The passenger side and sunroof still work just fine, although they are pretty sluggish.
I recently had some work done at a shop and had them do some diagnostics on the window. They told me that I need to replace the Power Window Master Switch along with the motor for the driver's side window. They quoted me at $850!! This is a mechanic I've used for years and who has never unfairly charged me for work.
I called around to some other shops and they were all quoting me around the same price ($700-$900).
Why would I need to replace the Master Switch if two out of the three power windows are working just fine? Also, is $700-$900 for parts and labor to replace this sound accurate?
I recently had some work done at a shop and had them do some diagnostics on the window. They told me that I need to replace the Power Window Master Switch along with the motor for the driver's side window. They quoted me at $850!! This is a mechanic I've used for years and who has never unfairly charged me for work.
I called around to some other shops and they were all quoting me around the same price ($700-$900).
Why would I need to replace the Master Switch if two out of the three power windows are working just fine? Also, is $700-$900 for parts and labor to replace this sound accurate?
Last edited by cbahr06; 11-20-2009 at 09:27 AM.
11-26-2009, 01:54 AM
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Well that price sounds a little high. If you're willing to do some shopping around and doing the work yourself you should be able to do it for under 200.
First; I would check to make sure you do in fact need a new power window master switch. You'll need a multimeter to do this.
Take off both the driver and passenger side door panels. Unplug the passenger side motor and have a friend start the car and flip the window switch for the passenger side. With the passenger motor unplugged hook up your multimeter and figure out what the readings for the motor should be. Now repeat the process on the driver side to see if you're getting the same power through the wires.
Simple math here, if the multimeter showed power on the passenger motor but not the driver side then you know you need a new switch. If do get the same power on both sides then you should get a new motor instead.
For a new switch I would get one from ebay or a local junk yard.
If you have power then you need a new motor, I would get one from an auto parts store, but if you really need to save money then junk yard that part as well.
As for sluggish windows; replacing the motors should fix this.
First; I would check to make sure you do in fact need a new power window master switch. You'll need a multimeter to do this.
Take off both the driver and passenger side door panels. Unplug the passenger side motor and have a friend start the car and flip the window switch for the passenger side. With the passenger motor unplugged hook up your multimeter and figure out what the readings for the motor should be. Now repeat the process on the driver side to see if you're getting the same power through the wires.
Simple math here, if the multimeter showed power on the passenger motor but not the driver side then you know you need a new switch. If do get the same power on both sides then you should get a new motor instead.
For a new switch I would get one from ebay or a local junk yard.
If you have power then you need a new motor, I would get one from an auto parts store, but if you really need to save money then junk yard that part as well.
As for sluggish windows; replacing the motors should fix this.
12-01-2009, 09:36 PM
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1. The motor is easy to test, just use a 12v battery, positive to one side negative to the other will make the window go up or down. Reverse and it will go in the opposite direction. If the windows are slow going up, try cleaning the channels and putting some shin-etsu in the tracks (this is a lubricant that Honda/Acura dealers use), it is available from dealer or online: http://www.handa-accessories.com/shin.jpg
2. A master switch can go out on a single window without affecting how the other windows work, they are pretty simple to swap.
2. A master switch can go out on a single window without affecting how the other windows work, they are pretty simple to swap.
01-11-2010, 02:25 AM
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Procedure:
1. Take door panel off, it's easy if you don't know how. Just take all the screws you can see off. There are 3 screw that are behind the carpet cover on the lower part of the panel. The panel just pop out.
2. Disconnect the light and switches connector.
3. Remove the clear plastic that cover over the a big hole of inner metal frame.
4. There are 2 screws holding the glass window to the motor assembly. Find a piece of wood and jack the glass window up to where you can see these screws. Remove the 2 screws and window won't drop, IF YOU JACK it up.
5. There are 4 screws holding the assembly rail to the inner frame. Two above the hole and 2 below the hole. Take those out and the frame should come right out.
6. The motor itself is mounted by the hole, in the lower part and front side of the car. Facing the hole, if driver side it will be on your right, passenger side is on your left. Disconnect the power connector. There are 3 screws holding the motor to metal frame. Take those screws out and the motor should come off.
7. Slide the motor assembly out thru the hole.
8. Put the new one in.
9. Just reverse the procedure.
10. YOU'RE DONE, 30 minutes or less, saved $210.
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1. Take door panel off, it's easy if you don't know how. Just take all the screws you can see off. There are 3 screw that are behind the carpet cover on the lower part of the panel. The panel just pop out.
2. Disconnect the light and switches connector.
3. Remove the clear plastic that cover over the a big hole of inner metal frame.
4. There are 2 screws holding the glass window to the motor assembly. Find a piece of wood and jack the glass window up to where you can see these screws. Remove the 2 screws and window won't drop, IF YOU JACK it up.
5. There are 4 screws holding the assembly rail to the inner frame. Two above the hole and 2 below the hole. Take those out and the frame should come right out.
6. The motor itself is mounted by the hole, in the lower part and front side of the car. Facing the hole, if driver side it will be on your right, passenger side is on your left. Disconnect the power connector. There are 3 screws holding the motor to metal frame. Take those screws out and the motor should come off.
7. Slide the motor assembly out thru the hole.
8. Put the new one in.
9. Just reverse the procedure.
10. YOU'RE DONE, 30 minutes or less, saved $210.
=======================
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