please help !!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 8
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From: Van Nuys, CA
please help !!
First off i have a 96 teg Auto. My car is throwing a CEL #9 CYP Sensor. I did the search already but it didn't really help me. Can someone describe this sensor wat it looks like and where can it be located ? My car is running fine but the second i put it in drive it sputters and stalls then die, its weird cause it works in reverse. Someone please help me i need my car running and it stuck at a friends house. I'm not sure if the problem is in the distributor or in the cylinder
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20
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From: California
You need a new distributor. If your car is still under warantee you might want to bring it back to the dealer. CYP stands for cylinder position sensor. Inside the distributor there are three sensors and they are CKP/TDC/CYP.
CKP: crankshaft position sensor
TDC: Top Dead Center Sensor
CYP: Cylinder Position Sensor
code #9 means: open or short cyp sensor. bad cyp sensor
The OE distributor cost a lot. A new one at the dealer will set you back $299.95 after tax it should be around $319. I really suggest that you find out if your car is still under waranttee.
CKP: crankshaft position sensor
TDC: Top Dead Center Sensor
CYP: Cylinder Position Sensor
code #9 means: open or short cyp sensor. bad cyp sensor
The OE distributor cost a lot. A new one at the dealer will set you back $299.95 after tax it should be around $319. I really suggest that you find out if your car is still under waranttee.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 2
Didn't like my answer on Honda-Tech.com, huh? 
Check out the wiring harness to the distributor, because the drive vs. reverse thing is important.
With all the stuff you listed (B18B, TP tubular equal length manifold, Garett T3, HKS WG, HKS IC, HKS BOV, HKS Filter, HKS SAFR, JG TB, SK2 CG, SK2 IM, AEM FR, AEM FPR, RC 310cc, MSD Inline FP, Vortech FMU) I bet somethings pushing on the wiring harness & you didn't leave enough slack for the engine to move.
If your engine mounts are going/gone bad, your engine will move more than it should when you put it in gear. Drive & reverse make it move in opposite directions. In drive the engine wants to lean back towards the firewall, in reverse it wants to lean forward towards the radiator.
Follow the wiring harness from the distributor, look for anyplace where it can pull itself too tight when the engine moves. There's probably a busted wire that only opens up when its stretched. That'll be a PITA to find.
Check out the wiring harness to the distributor, because the drive vs. reverse thing is important.With all the stuff you listed (B18B, TP tubular equal length manifold, Garett T3, HKS WG, HKS IC, HKS BOV, HKS Filter, HKS SAFR, JG TB, SK2 CG, SK2 IM, AEM FR, AEM FPR, RC 310cc, MSD Inline FP, Vortech FMU) I bet somethings pushing on the wiring harness & you didn't leave enough slack for the engine to move.
If your engine mounts are going/gone bad, your engine will move more than it should when you put it in gear. Drive & reverse make it move in opposite directions. In drive the engine wants to lean back towards the firewall, in reverse it wants to lean forward towards the radiator.
Follow the wiring harness from the distributor, look for anyplace where it can pull itself too tight when the engine moves. There's probably a busted wire that only opens up when its stretched. That'll be a PITA to find.