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Electrical Problems Spreading on 1988 Integra; Time to Pull the Plug?

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Old May 31, 2009 | 11:00 AM
  #1  
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Default Electrical Problems Spreading on 1988 Integra; Time to Pull the Plug?

Hi, Guys. Need some input from those of you with electrical troubleshooting expertise.

I purchased my 1988 Intregra 21 years ago and had hopes of keeping it as it becomes a classic antique. I love this car and have cared for it -- the motor is tight, body above average, and it provides dependable transportation.

Recently, however, it has developed a series of electrical problems. First, turning on the a/c causes the blower motor to blow a fuse (see https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/i...ow-1988-a.html). Second, the radio's switched power source went out (constant power source still good but radio will not work w/o switched). Third, no power to cigerette lighter (not sure when this went out). Fourth, last night the retractable headlights would not flip down upon turning lights off. Unfortunately, I've checked all fuses under the dashboard and they are all good (n.b., haven't checked headlight fuse yet as this just occurred).

I can tolerate loss of the above functions but I'm concerned that it'll spread to something that is critical to safe operation. I've been told that electrical system problems justify pulling the plug on an aged vehicle.

So, here are a few questions:

1. Is there a mult purpose relay that controls the above components? Although it would be wonderful to find a single part to fix the above the fact that problems (headlight retractor; not sure about the timing outage of a/c vs radio or cig) did not occur simultaneously may rule out this solution.

2. I purchased a digital multi meter but my knowledge of auto electrical system needs some work. Was planning on buying the OEM Acura Electrical Troubleshooting Manual from Helm, Inc. (http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.a...MWHU9PMPFGEVWA) but upon checkout got this warning:

"This manual is a digital reprint of the original publication... Any wiring diagrams in the original shop/service manual are NOT reproduceable and are no longer available."

Am I incorrect in assuming that a wiring diagram is essential for troubleshooting? What do I need to ask Helm to make sure that this manual will be useful?

3. My strategy at this point is to have my mechanic rule out a defective a/c compressor. If the compressor is OK then I'll buy an a/c switch, blower motor relay, and retractable headlight switch. May pay mechanic for radio as I couldn't fix it (http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...26#post2554426) and I don't think it has a relay. Does this seem reasonable? Are there any other parts I should purchase?

Recently dropped $1300 for timing, a/c, etc. belts, alternator, etc. to my local mechanic. Electical troubleshooting appears to me to be an open ended (i.e, no estimates and seems to spread) expense. So taking it to a repair shop at some point doesn't make sense when compared to replacing the car.

I can deal with replacing relays and switches (diy) but finding bad wires seems like a hopeless endeavor. FWIW, the wiring, though overwhelming, appears to be well protected through plastic tubing and electrical tape.

Thanks in advance for your insights!

P.S.
Strangely, the headlamps flipped back down overnight. Now headlights flip up and down as designed.

Last edited by Sw8; Jun 1, 2009 at 10:50 AM. Reason: see p.s.
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 11:19 AM
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Default Zeroing In

On advice of auto shop, unplugged wire to compressor to eliminate it as problem. To my surprise, unplugging the single wire connection (black wire (male) from compressor that connects via female to red (with blue dot) wire) caused the a/c to work! Thus, both compressor and a/c switch are good. Unfortunately, this also causes the radiator fans to not work.

With single wire to compressor connected (radiator fans working) fuse to no 14 (defroster relay, blower motor fan) continues to blow as I swapped out relays (first, one with red (w/ blue dot) wire connection, then others).

Will check red (with blue dot) wire for damage. Clearly, this wire is related to the problem.

Unless someone has a suggestion I suppose my next stop is the mechanic. Given that I've done a lot of the troubleshooting, hopefully it won't be too painful.
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 02:01 PM
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yeah unfortunately without the car right in front of us and good multimeter and test light, theres not much i can personally advise you to do. it looks like you're on the correct path to the solution though.

i say stick with it, i'm sure once you find the problem you'll laugh at yourself for wanting to get rid of the car for it.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 05:06 PM
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Default Conclusion

I'm posting the information below as a courtesy so that anyone who has the above problems might benefit from my experience.

The primary problem -- a/c compressor blowing blower motor fuse when turned on -- is likely due to a defective a/c compressor clutch coil. I emphasize likely because I chose not to repair it. This conclusion is based on a troubleshooting exercise with an Acura expert at justanswer.com.

I decided that it would be imprudent to replace the coil due to the age of the car, compressor, drier, and labor costs. Essentially, given that the compressor is 10 years old, drier 5 years, and that the labor costs of replacing coil are close to replacement of core a/c system (compressor w/clutch, dryer, evaporator) it doesn't make sense to spend an estimated $350 (replace coil only) when $1k for a/c repairs is needed for reliable service (both compressor (working but aged) and drier (should be replaced every 4 to 5 years) are due for replacement).

Pioneer car stereos require both switched and constant power lines to work. Since it appeared that the switched power line failure was due to a defective wire the most practical solution was to use one of the accessory power outlets on the fuse board (under dash). It's a relatively simple procedure to run a wire from the fuse board to the radio. Be sure to use a fuse (see busmann or litel fuse products) for creation of a safe circuit.

The cigarette lighter failure was due to a problem with the spring mechanism within the lighter. My understanding was that the cig and radio were on the same circuit so I assumed that it was without power. In fact, power was and is available for accessory items through this plug.

In conclusion, the above problems apparently were unrelated. So for now, I'll not pull the plug on this car.

Last edited by Sw8; Jun 29, 2009 at 05:11 PM.
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 07:46 PM
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From: charlottesville
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well i know that my original 91 teg had its fair share of electrical problems. The cruise control never worked, nor the rear defroster, the intermediate switch on the wipers didnt work, they just stayed on low, the heater selector worked when it felt like it and the ac didnt work (was probably just the r12 had been exhausted) I recently got ahold of another. The ac, rear defrost and wiper switch work, but the heater selector is again goofy and the cruise doesnt work (worked the day i bought it though) Id say the integras are doomed from the start
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Old Aug 22, 2009 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_kewl81
well i know that my original 91 teg had its fair share of electrical problems. The cruise control never worked, nor the rear defroster, the intermediate switch on the wipers didnt work, they just stayed on low, the heater selector worked when it felt like it and the ac didnt work (was probably just the r12 had been exhausted) I recently got ahold of another. The ac, rear defrost and wiper switch work, but the heater selector is again goofy and the cruise doesnt work (worked the day i bought it though) Id say the integras are doomed from the start
I've read a thread on another forum about repairing the ICU for under $5 to fix the intermitant wipers, rear defogger, and various instrument cluster problems. As far as the cruise, check to see if the rubber bumper has deteriorated on the clutch pedal switch. I've had that happen on my 89 clutch and my 91 clutch and brake both. If that happens, the pin on the switch drops through a hole in the arm. My 89 got to the point where if I accidently bumped the headlight motor switch, they would stay up for several minutes, then decide to go back to sleep. I never tried to find the cause there since normal operation was fine. Spooky.

Dave
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