1) Cheapest place to get brembo blanks? $36 ea. at www.tirerack.com , but I thought someone got them for $23 or something on here at one point...

2) Pads. Head is spinning. Looking at EBC greenstuff (chews up rotors?), AEM/Nissin, Hawk HPS, Axxis. I don't autocross or race or anything, but I do drive hard and open it up occasionally. Something that won't squeal, isn't horrid with dust, and performs better than stock.

3) Anybody have a good link to instructions on how to bed-in new brakes?

4) Best brake fluid?

5) Reman calipers or new (ouch $)?

 

what's wrong with your stock calipers?

 

Shot.
Its a 94, they're rusted to hell. One of the slider bolts is completely siezed on the right rear, rusted together. Couldn't even move it (just for kicks) with a hammer. Pad was worn at a complete angle because of it. Left rear drags, haven't torn it apart yet. Replacing the wheel bearings too.

 

I'm in whitesboro btw, but you may already know that.

 

I got rear Brembo blanks for like $15 each from nopi. I also got AEM/Nissen front pads and remanufactured front calipers ($50 ea). I bedded the pads by doing several 60-0 stops in increasing intensity.

 

I have the brembro cross drilled and greenstuff pads and they are better than stock...but you do have to warm them up slightly...but everyone that has driven my car has commented on my brakes...even the acura mechanics...and they are quiet

 

Nopi sells the Brembo blanks for pretty cheap.

Some earlier runs of EBC Greenstuff pads produced less than stellar results but that was years ago. You'll probably like them.

Basic procedure to bed in your brakes I stole from Wilwood:

Proper bedding starts with the new pads being run through one complete heat cycle, and then cooled before using them in race conditions. Best performance and overall results will come from bedding new pads on an already bedded, or “seasoned” rotor. Used rotors must be flat and smooth. New pads can be effectively bedded to new rotors, if some care is taken at first break-in.

To bed-in your brake pads, begin by applying the brakes at low speeds to assure proper system operation. On the race track or other safe location, make a series of hard stops from moderate to slower speeds. Gradually, increase the speed and the braking until the pads reach a hot racing temperature. If your car has brake cooling ducts, you may want to close them to hasten the process. If any brake pad fade is experienced during the bed-in, immediately begin the cool down process. Drive the car at slow to moderate speeds while the pads begin to cool, and be sure not to drag the brake pedal. Pit or park the car with minimal brake use and allow the brakes to finish cooling before subjecting them to race conditions. This procedure will minimize pad wear and maximize friction values over the broadest possible temperature band.

The Acura dealer (or Honda dealer) can provide the proper brake fluid; otherwise Ate Super Blue is nice.

Remanufactured calipers will do just fine.

 

hey Space Boy where did you get brembo crossed drilled? Are they rusting around the hat? Also what is this greenstuff brakes? I need new brakes I had those cheap life time ones from autozone. But they suck. I do everyday driving.

 

2) Pads: I'm running Axxis Ultimates. Very pleased with their cold performance (while driving to work of course) as well as autocross/light track duty (not that it matters in your case but just FYI). They do dust like hell but the dust is very easy to get off. A matter of rinse and wipe. Hawks HPS or even HP+ are comparable but I've heard they produce just as much brake dust that is much harder to clean off your wheels.

I personally wouldn't bother with AEM pads...not that big of a difference over the stock pads.

Shingo