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Oil Change: 3 or 5k?

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Old Dec 10, 2002 | 12:49 PM
  #21  
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lttletimmy
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hmmmmmmm, tempting....very tempting...
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Old Dec 10, 2002 | 12:54 PM
  #22  
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i say let's group buy this amsoil stuff. 1000$ for a 55 gallon drum.
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Old Dec 11, 2002 | 07:38 AM
  #23  
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I don't think it's a problem with my motor. In retrospect, I had learned that the Acura dealer was using Petro Canada brand oil for their oil changes. With it being as black as it was, I would assume that the mix was heavily swayed to the 'detergent' end of the spectrum, and not so concentrated towards lubrication. I started supplying my own oil... Castrol (not synthetic) at first, which yielded similar results. Then I tried Valvoline, which wasn't nearly as dark at 4000km, which I changed regardless; I was very happy with the Valvoline. I then tried Valvoline's Max Life, and noticed similar results to the Petro Canada and Castrol. Now I'm back to plain Valvoline, and I think I'll stick with it.

im using mobil1 synthetic, right now, and after 5k i still had the right amount of oil and it was as clean as when i put it in.
If it comes out looking just like it went in, it has a very low detergent composition. It is doing nothing to clean out your motor. The oil has two functions: to clean, and lubricate (well, and reduce heat, etc...) If it's ONLY lubricating, it isn't a very good oil.
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Old Dec 11, 2002 | 09:03 AM
  #24  
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Originally posted by mrhonda_187

If it comes out looking just like it went in, it has a very low detergent composition. It is doing nothing to clean out your motor. The oil has two functions: to clean, and lubricate (well, and reduce heat, etc...) If it's ONLY lubricating, it isn't a very good oil.
motor oils main function is to lubricate the engine. if you want a really clean engine, you should use tranny oil. but that doesnt agree too well with engines.

and the inside of the engines that were running the amsoil(which has almost no detergent in it) were extremely clean.

a doesnt need detergents because it should keep everything lubricated properly so you have no metal to metal contact, so no microscopic metal shavings in the oil. and it will reduce temps so that very little carbon is built up which also adds to oil discoloration.
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Old Dec 11, 2002 | 09:38 AM
  #25  
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bror jace is the oil wizard on this board. Hopefully he'll chime in. He was involved in a really, really good 'oil' thread a while back, but sadly I can't find it?

XSrcing, you made some very good points. Still... I think I'm right.
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Old Dec 11, 2002 | 09:52 AM
  #26  
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Originally posted by mrhonda_187
bror jace is the oil wizard on this board. Hopefully he'll chime in. He was involved in a really, really good 'oil' thread a while back, but sadly I can't find it?

XSrcing, you made some very good points. Still... I think I'm right.
I don't think Bror Jace has even come back here eveer since the damn crash.... I do see him posting about oil over at the OTHER Honda site.....
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Old Dec 11, 2002 | 10:02 AM
  #27  
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I searched for his name on some 'other' sites and found nothing. Regardless... the answers lie here:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.html

(hope I'm right).
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Old Dec 11, 2002 | 10:44 AM
  #28  
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Well, at first glance, from what I've read on Bob's website, if it came out looking like it went in, you didn't run it long enough.

Oh, and I'm switching to Mobil 1.
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