In relation to shock settings and stiffness which is better? Hard setting in the front softer in the rear, or Harder in the rear and softer in the front?

I was under the impression that a softer setting in the front would help reduce understeer, is this true?

My current set up is as follows:

Ground control coilovers with Tokico Illuminas(5 way adjustables).
Currently set on level 2 in front and 3 in the rear.

 

you want it stiffer in the rear for a car like a teg.

 

It all depends on what else you got.
I would do 2front 3rear but if you get a rear lower tie and rear sway, youll start to feel the rear end almost want to drag the front along, because the front is too squishy -- then you'd want to make the front a bit more stiff.

Generally ,rear a little more stiff than front.

But remember, stiffer isnt always better -- on the track its ok, but in daily driving/real roads you want the wheels to move and give a little.

 

I was thinking that's what I needed to do. I like the way it handles for now. All I have are the coilovers and shocks. I'm looking at Strut tower bars and urethane bushings down the road.

 

It induces oversteer.
Which, in turn, reduces understeer.

 

Yeap, which is why some folks take off their front strut bar when autocrossing.

Shingo

 

You mean front sway bar.

Strut/tie bars stiffen up the frame that the suspension is bolted to, they are not part of the suspension. Yes less flex in the frame does translate into a higher effective spring rate, but that is because more energy from the spring is being directed back at the wheels instead of being absorbed by chassis flex.

 

If you want the tightest handling you'll want both front and back shocks as stiff as possible and even stiffer springs in the rear or a stiffer rear sway bar.

Ideally you'd make the front sway bar thicker, the rear sway bar even thicker than that, all springs and all shocks stiffer, and tie bars all around to stiffen the chassis.

I'm going to go put Viagra decals on my tie bars, now.

 

Go drive in a 1995 BMW M3. Please note it was rated "Best Handling Car in the World, for Any Price"

You don't need to set your suspension to full stiff. In real world applications/driving hard on real roads (and even bad tracks), as stiff as possible is NOT ideal.
You'll just skip across the road.
When will people stop saying this crap and thinking a low/stiff car = good handling?

Hell, I bet a car with some koni's on full soft, a rear sway bar, and properly corner balanced w/ proper alignment/toe would absolutely destroy a slammed car with koni's on full stiff and sway bars and stuff.. -- smooth road or not.

Remember boys. "Stiffer isnt always better!"
Hell, I can do the same speed on specific bumpy-ass roads in my moms 100% bone stock 2001 Honda Civic EX as I can in my Integra with it's suspension work (gc's, koni's, sway bar, tie bar, etc) -- why? cause my car even though its not anywhere near being as stiff as it can -- still moves on hard bumps where the lil' civic just absorbs it...