Thanks for the info guys!

 

the pads grab on to the rotors tighter, longer resulting in shorter stopping distances. or something like that.


i was going to go with AEM on mines. but i think i might just go with OEM. whichever dust less.

 

As I understand it, improperly torqued lug nuts are the biggest problem for warpage. I did a ot of research on pads, and if I don't sell the car to buy a house, which looks like it won't be necessary, I will buy porterfield R4S/Comptech Hot Street pads(They are the same). I have a lot of reasons, primarily performance.

 

i recommended Axxis organic pads because they are quiet, a little more fade resistant than OEM, and produce very little dust. everything you are looking for.

 

Well at 90 mph I can make the ABS kick in almost instantly by getting on the brakes. I have stock pads, how would aftermarket pads be able to make me stop sooner if my tires are already close to lockup with the stock pads?

I think the tire is really what helps you stop faster. That and you manage the weight to the front and rear.

 

Correct; which is why most folks *should* upgrade their tires first, right MrFatBooty?

However, try driving your car (w/sticky rubber) with the stock pads versus some Hawks HP+ on a road course, and I'm sure you'll notice a difference (however small) in initial bite and stopping power.

Shingo

 

$118 cdn. front, $118 cdn. rear (prices from dealer). Raybestos... $45 front, $45 rear. I'll take the Raybestos please.

Oh, cost to have dealer install... $78 cdn. front + $78 cdn rear. No thanks, I'll install them myself. Freakin' ripoff.

(at least my rotors will be machined for free under warrantee).

 

Here let me add to your problem. A good pad is important because sh-ty pads if u drive hard on them will get very hot then sit on your rotor and produce heat spots . driving your car regular before parking will cool down the pads. But they make carbon mettalic pads which in general are better and cause u too stay off the brake as much, and wont get worn down as fast!

 

Brakes work by converting the energy of the wheel hub spinning, into heat. However the tires must first convert the energy of the car moving forward into the energy of the wheel hubs spinning.

If you lock the wheels or get the ABS to kick in, that means the tires are not able to enough convert forward motion into rotation for the brakes to convert into heat. This also means that the tires have no traction and are doing not much at all to slow you down.

If you increase µ (coefficient of brake friction), you increase the brakes' capacity to convert motion into heat. Generally a pad with a higher µ will also have a higher tolerance for temperature. Increasing µ will give you better inital bite and more fade resistance but it will not stop the car any sooner with the same tires.

If you increase tire traction, you increase the supply of energy for the brakes to convert into heat. That works the brakes harder which in turn means you can use a pad with a higher µ to take advantage of the larger supply of rotational energy given by the stickier tires.

Make sense?

 

thats probably why project µ is named as such.