what is the smallest size wheel i can use
Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 54
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From: 310
damnit im talking out of my ass. In my opinion i would just get some drilled and slotted oem sized rotors and some bad ass pads. But it really depends on what your going to be using it for. I got a really really good deal on my rims and the brake kit thats why i did it. The power i lost from putting heavy 17's in compared to my racing 15" was rediculous. It was like taking away all the bolt-ons i had. Another reason i got them is i do a lot of canyon racing with my friends so it does help with the heat. If your looking at dragging and just want to stop quicker dont get the big brakes. if it is for Canyons / Road racing with lots of turns get the kit.
Wannabe yuppie
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 25,918
Likes: 0
From: Madison, WI
A "panic stop" is when you are driving along and slam on the brakes. On a car with ABS the ABS will kick in, on a car without ABS the wheels will lock unless you pump the pedal.
As for the AEM brake rotor kit, it does is a couple things. It increases the amount of torque applied to the rotating assembly by the brakes for the same given pedal pressure. It also adds higher heat capacity since there's a lot more metal there to radiate heat than the stock brakes. Both of these are good things.
The way you decrease stopping distance however, is by maximizing the amount of forward motion of the car you can convert into heat with the brakes. The tires first convert forward motion into rotational motion and the brakes then convert rotation into heat. Locking the wheels happens essentially because the tires are no longer able to convert enough forward motion into rotation for the brakes to convert to heat. The brakes will have less resistance to fade after repeated use, that's it. If your brakes can lock the wheels, you're not going to stop any faster unless you get stickier tires.
As for the AEM brake rotor kit, it does is a couple things. It increases the amount of torque applied to the rotating assembly by the brakes for the same given pedal pressure. It also adds higher heat capacity since there's a lot more metal there to radiate heat than the stock brakes. Both of these are good things.
The way you decrease stopping distance however, is by maximizing the amount of forward motion of the car you can convert into heat with the brakes. The tires first convert forward motion into rotational motion and the brakes then convert rotation into heat. Locking the wheels happens essentially because the tires are no longer able to convert enough forward motion into rotation for the brakes to convert to heat. The brakes will have less resistance to fade after repeated use, that's it. If your brakes can lock the wheels, you're not going to stop any faster unless you get stickier tires.
Wannabe yuppie
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 25,918
Likes: 0
From: Madison, WI
Well, let me readjust my statement here.
It is true that once you exceed the traction of the tires, there's nothing more your brakes can really do. On the other hand, the ability to reach the threshold of lockup (a.k.a. maximum rotation-to-heat conversion) more quickly and be kept at the threshold is a good thing. I didn't mean to downplay that.
It is true that once you exceed the traction of the tires, there's nothing more your brakes can really do. On the other hand, the ability to reach the threshold of lockup (a.k.a. maximum rotation-to-heat conversion) more quickly and be kept at the threshold is a good thing. I didn't mean to downplay that.
Hellsing Agency
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,561
Likes: 0
A good set of brake pads, proper bleeding of the brakes, and some SS brake lines will do wonders for your braking. The AEM big brake rotor kit is blangin', but cross-drilled rotors are blah.
MrFatBooty pretty much 0wned this topic so you can just read what he wrote and be set.
Shingo
MrFatBooty pretty much 0wned this topic so you can just read what he wrote and be set.
Shingo
