camber spec
i lowered my car about two weeks ago with tokico blues and h&r sports. Today i went to get my wheels aligned. Here is the specs that they are currently at
Camber:
Front left: -1.5x
Front Right: -1.9x
Rear Left: -2.0x
Rear Right: -1.4x
Toe:
Front left: 1/16"
Front Right: 1/16"
Rear Left: 3/32"
Rear Right: 3/32"
They said that i would either need a camber kit or to have the nuckle bent on the front. I am kinda tight on money right now, what do you think i should do. Also, for the back should i just use a couple of washers. And does anyone know how to do that? Just a little confused about thier placement.
Thanks
Camber:
Front left: -1.5x
Front Right: -1.9x
Rear Left: -2.0x
Rear Right: -1.4x
Toe:
Front left: 1/16"
Front Right: 1/16"
Rear Left: 3/32"
Rear Right: 3/32"
They said that i would either need a camber kit or to have the nuckle bent on the front. I am kinda tight on money right now, what do you think i should do. Also, for the back should i just use a couple of washers. And does anyone know how to do that? Just a little confused about thier placement.
Thanks
Definately don't have the knuckle bent up front. For now you can drive around with the negative camber, just be sure to rotate your tires regularly. The "washer trick" in back is fine to do since it's not permanent. You put the washers between the upper control arm bushing (the upper control arm is the one that bolts to the trailing arm above the hub) and the car itself. It's also a good idea to get longer bolts to make sure that they thread in all the way. This is what it should look like:
Basically negative caber is when the top of your wheel is tilted in towards the car (if you're looking at it from the front or back of the car). The knuckle is the part of the suspension which the wheel hub bolts to. If the shop bends it they can correct negative caber to a certain extent. The problem is that now part of your car is bent. 
In back you can just space the upper control arm away from the car a bit with washers so it's not too much of a worry. Up front though there's no easy way to adjust things without getting a camber kit. Ingalls is alright although if you have a ton of correction it will sometimes bang against the wheel well liner. Their kit is basically adjustable bolts for the upper A-arm. Otherwise skunk2 makes a set of A-arms with camber adjustment built in to them which is definately nicer, but more expensive.

In back you can just space the upper control arm away from the car a bit with washers so it's not too much of a worry. Up front though there's no easy way to adjust things without getting a camber kit. Ingalls is alright although if you have a ton of correction it will sometimes bang against the wheel well liner. Their kit is basically adjustable bolts for the upper A-arm. Otherwise skunk2 makes a set of A-arms with camber adjustment built in to them which is definately nicer, but more expensive.
ya, i checked out the skunk2 and that seems nice. Here is my question, is my camber so bad that i should do the camber kit as my next mod. I was talking with my friend today and he can get me a new 5zigen fireball exhaust with custom 2 1/4 mandrel bent piping from the cat back for 225 new. I thought that this was really good. Now, i dont want to pass this up, but i am in a bind, which one should i get. I mean could i just rotate my tires alot like every 3000 miles?
Thanks for all your replies.
Thanks for all your replies.
what're the rear camber specs for a 99 civic ex 2-door? i just put on eibach pro kit springs w/ kyb agx dampers. i think the rear, just by visual inspection, might have too much negative camber. thanks in advance


