RPM start up issue
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Joined: Jun 2007
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RPM start up issue
Ok guys,
I got another question, when I satart my car in the morning it will jump up to about 2k rpm's and then settle down to about 1500 for a while, if I leave it for about 5-6 minutes its back about 750 where it should be, is this ok? or is there something I should look at, it didn't seem that it used to do it, but has only started in the past two weeks....Does it maybe have somethign to do with weather or is it maybe an indicator of something wrong in my engine?
-Adam
I got another question, when I satart my car in the morning it will jump up to about 2k rpm's and then settle down to about 1500 for a while, if I leave it for about 5-6 minutes its back about 750 where it should be, is this ok? or is there something I should look at, it didn't seem that it used to do it, but has only started in the past two weeks....Does it maybe have somethign to do with weather or is it maybe an indicator of something wrong in my engine?
-Adam
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Joined: Jun 2007
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what i kind of mean to ask is, is there maybe some kind of sensor or somehting in the engine that tells it its cold or somehtign and to raise rpm's until it heats up or is or is it somehting else performance related....
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this is normal. it does that to get the engine warmed up. btw, you shouldn't let the engine idle for 5-6 minutes. if you're waiting for the "juices to flow", waiting 20 seconds or so before driving off is sufficient.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Texas
Depending on the year of your car, either the FITV (Fast idle thermo valve) or IACV (Idle air control valve) determines idle speed.
When the AC is on, and during cold weather the idle will increase. You could remove the IACV from the back of your intake manifold and clean it with brake parts cleaner. If its settling down to 750 RPM's, I wouldn't worry about it though.
When the AC is on, and during cold weather the idle will increase. You could remove the IACV from the back of your intake manifold and clean it with brake parts cleaner. If its settling down to 750 RPM's, I wouldn't worry about it though.
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Kool, thanx guys for all the help....It seems I learn more and mroe every week form this website, it is an invaluable source of information and everyones support is very appreciated no matter how little or much they have to offer.
I have one additional question now though...
I did my front brakes last weekend and, it seems the rears need to be done soon too, is there anything different or additional I need to look for or do when doing my rear brakes as opposed to the front?
-Adam
I have one additional question now though...
I did my front brakes last weekend and, it seems the rears need to be done soon too, is there anything different or additional I need to look for or do when doing my rear brakes as opposed to the front?
-Adam
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,270
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From: Texas
Kool, thanx guys for all the help....It seems I learn more and mroe every week form this website, it is an invaluable source of information and everyones support is very appreciated no matter how little or much they have to offer.
I have one additional question now though...
I did my front brakes last weekend and, it seems the rears need to be done soon too, is there anything different or additional I need to look for or do when doing my rear brakes as opposed to the front?
-Adam
I have one additional question now though...
I did my front brakes last weekend and, it seems the rears need to be done soon too, is there anything different or additional I need to look for or do when doing my rear brakes as opposed to the front?
-Adam
Rear brakes are similar, the biggest difference is that you have to "screw" the piston in instead of pushing. See the manual above.
