I'm wondering how high you guys think i can go on my red line. Here is my build

GSR top end
full port and polish
victor X manifold ported to match head
4-1 "ebay special" SS header 2.5" collector to 3" SS exhaust
zex (comp cams) duel valve springs and steel retainers
ferea SS valves
stock GSR cams
B18c5 bottom end
stock crank
stock girdle
acl bearings
forged H beam rods w/ arp 220,000 psi rod bolts
Sleeved w/84mm bore and deck guard
JE 9.2-1 forged pistons (thats with a type r head i think my compression is around 9.5-1 to 10-1)

I think the gsr red line is 8100, but i upgraded the weak link from there (springs) and i think the type r's red line is 8500, and i upgraded the weak link there to (rods and rod bolts) So what do you guys think? Can I push it to 9000...9500...10,000? My set up, except for the current cams, is all for high end power my motor comes to life at 6500 and pulls all the way to when i shift at 8500. I know it has more after that, but I'm a little scared to push it. Any input Will be appreciated.

 

zex (comp cams) duel valve springs and steel retainers(no valve float)
stock GSR cams(no high lift)
forged H beam rods w/ arp 220,000 psi rod bolts(stronger)

Thy will help, 8500 is all I would take it but its your engine. Horse power drops off at high rpms du to the coil can not re charge and the injectors can only open so fast (you run lean). I would take it to a dyno and see what happens. At high rpms is wean bigger injectors, higher fuel pressure, distributor less ignition and a professional tune come into play do you have any of these things? What computer are you using? Thy all have different rev. limiters.

JE 9.2-1 forged pistons (thats with a type r head i think my compression is around 9.5-1 to 10-1)
What is your valve to piston clearance???
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/claymotor/clay.php
This is a big factor in rev

 

aem ecu and im using an msd 6al for ignition. you got a point on the injectors ill have to hook it up to the laptop and check the duty cycle when im up that high.

 

OEM GSR Cam's will not make power above 8100 rpm's, anything higher is just putting unnecessary stress on your motor. Set the rev limiter wherever power drops off on your dyno chart.

I would say upgrade your cam's next but that's going to be kind of pointless with your low CR. As is, your motor is perfect for a turbo. Why did you go with lower compression for an NA build?


All tunable ECU's have an adjustable Rev Limiter & The OEM Distributor has been proven in cars with over 450 whp.

I think it's a little late to be telling this guy to clay his motor for clearances, obviously he's already been driving it. And stock cam's will not give him a problem.

The coil has nothing to do with your injectors. Your post doesn't make much sense, the only correct thing I can decipher out of that is: Get it tuned!

 

If you're still running on the OEM injectors, you're going to max out their duty cycle long before 10K becomes feasible.

Also, I have my doubts about bottom-end oiling if you're going to live a 8K+ all day. And who made those valve retainers? And why aren't you running a higher lift / duration cam?

Get the car on the dyno and see what can be done to improve your midrange before going absolutely mental trying to build a 10K+ street motor.

 

No what I was trying to say is at high rpm (10k) the stock coil has a hard time building a charge that is why thy have coil pack systems. The stock coil works fine to about 9k and on turbo systems. Think about it every revolution their is 2 power strokes this is twice the coil has to re charge so at 10k the coil has to charge 20k times. On a coil pack system you have 4 coils one per cylinder the coils have lots of time and an easer job. So every coil only has to charge once every 2 revolution. What ever I'm not making sense your rite LOL.

And yes the stock cam will work fine.

I was wandering what ecm he was using stock ones do have a rev. limiter and yes aftermarket ecm you can set the rev. limiter.

Now about the injectors as the other dave said he will max out the duty cycle. This is the point I was trying to make.

Sorry I know I should be more clear. We are all saying the same just no one under stands me LOL. Hell look at my custom user title it even says WTF?.

 

I havent got a more agressive cam yet because im going to be adding a turbo later and ive seen people make good power off gsr cams and turbos, and i dont think it will help me any to get a set of turbo cams and run them with out a turbo. and the for the low comp...turbo. I'am running N2O at the moment. i do have an msd ignition with external coil. but as for injectors...still the oem

 

In order to make power above 8500rpm, you will need a high-lift, long-duration cam with a substantial amount of overlap. You would also benefit from far higher static compression.

Both the increase in CR and the valve overlap are detrimental to your plans for a turbocharged build. It sounds to me like you're trying to change your mind 2/3rds of the way through your build.

The obvious answer is to finish the turbo build.

 

:werd:

I'm with TOD.

Finish your turbo build, and don't worry about cam's or revving the piss out of your motor. The setup you have already is capable of some serious power with the correct turbo setup. You will need new injectors and a professional tune also.

 

ya im gonna stick with 8100 for now it makes good enuff power below that with the bottle on. and avoid the chance of banging a valve of the top of a piston. ill just finish my turbo kit and get it tuned. then ill know if its worth pushing it that high. thanks for the input guys