With the paper clip trick I am getting a solid check engine light (no blinks, nothing) when moving the ignition to the on position. Does this indicate an ECU issue?

Also, I get constant power at the injectors in the on position and a funny hum from the starter.

My ECU was socketed and is running a chip from a Type R. My car is a 94 GSR, it HAS NOT run with this chip... Can it?

 

I'm a little confused by your post. Was your CEL on before you tried to get a code from it? I assume it was, maybe you have the wrong plug, or bad connectivity with the paper clip.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think you would want power to your injectors when your car is in the on position. As for your starter humming, that shouldn't be happening. How do you know that sound is coming from the starter?

And the last part confuses me even more. You say your ECU is chipped, but then say you have never run the car with it. Do you have two ECUs, two cars? Your car should be able to run with a Type R ECU, though why would you want to? What do you expect to accomplish out of having a Type R ECU in your GSR?

 

first things first, get rid of the type r ecu, put teh stock ecu back in it. then see if you get codes.

i'm going to assume your talking its got its setup from a USDM type-R. which means that its a 97+ ecu and OBDII

your GSR is OBDI, you cant just swap OBDII ecu into a OBDI car without having issues my friend.

 

Its the original ODB1 ECU from the 94 GSR but it was socketed so I can have it tuned with those burnable 28pin EPROMs. I did a full on motor buildup and did the ECU socketing at the same time which is why the car has not run yet with that Type R chip (Can't start the motor if the chip is bad, I am assuming). Unfortunately I don't have the original chip from before it was socketed. Does a solid CEL make any sense when I jumper those two wires.

 

What program are you using to burn the EPROMs?
And what specifically have you done to the motor to warrant a custom fuel & timing map?


I would rent a OBD1 scanner and see what codes you can pull from the diagnostic port before proceeding any further.

At this point, all I have is a hunch that either the EPROM socket is shorting out or the EPROM itself is dead.

 

no blinks = bad ecu, change your computer and you should be good.

 

I did type r pistons, skunk2 stage 2 cams, cam gears, intake, header, and exhaust. This is why the ECU was socketed. I also have a feeling its a bad EPROM, and I didn't burn it, I got it from a friend and was hoping it would be enough to start it and take the car to get properly tuned.

 

There is your problem. The chip sounds like it was a bad burn. It needs to be burnt again.