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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 07:49 AM
  #1  
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Default timing belt

i am replacing my timing belt on my 99 LS Teg. As far as I know, i need to replace the belt as well as the water pump and seals, cam seals, and timing cover seal. Anything im missing? ANY advice would be awesome.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 08:18 AM
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do your research about the crank pulley bolt and the various methods for removing it and have a battle plan, because it will be battle.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by bnuk
do your research about the crank pulley bolt and the various methods for removing it and have a battle plan, because it will be battle.
Damn! To the death then!!
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 09:45 AM
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i know its going to be a battle, but my dad's a mechanic, so he's got the tools i need and the experience to help me out... he wont do it for me though... but i dont want him to anyway.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 02:39 PM
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It would be a good idea to change the pulley belts as well.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 04:20 PM
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yep, add to that the drive belts, and if you don't want to change the tensioner pulley, consider changing the tensioner spring at least.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 09:15 PM
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oh yea... forgot bout the drive belt. any other tips?
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 09:36 PM
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I noticed you didn't list a new timing belt tensioner/return spring, may want to replace that.. if it seizes on you, good bye belt.

Advice:

1. Take your time tensioning the belt and making sure the marks are perrrfecto. I know alot of times it's the home stretch and you wanna just finish but it's important (as i'm sure you know).

2. it's a 19mm bolt, don't use a standard socket (i've seen this before, strip that CS bolt and you're done).

3. Make sure you get a good feel at what the Timing belt slack feels like. So when you put it on, you'll have a feel for how tight / loose it should be. Some guys have put it on too loose and it's skipped teeths.

4. Don't do any work until you get that Crank pulley off, you may need to drive it to a shop and have them hit it w/ their impact gun. May the Honda gods be with you upon your glorious battle Vs the Cs bolt. (I bought an oem pulley holder, Best $40 ever if you work on hondas).

5. My last advice is, if your forcing somthing... it's probably not right.

Last edited by FooD2000; Apr 3, 2007 at 09:39 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by FooD2000
3. Make sure you get a good feel at what the Timing belt slack feels like. So when you put it on, you'll have a feel for how tight / loose it should be. Some guys have put it on too loose and it's skipped teeths.
best way to ensure that you do this correctly is to follow the tensioning procedure exactly as described in the helms manual..
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 11:38 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by FooD2000
I noticed you didn't list a new timing belt tensioner/return spring, may want to replace that.. if it seizes on you, good bye belt.

Advice:

1. Take your time tensioning the belt and making sure the marks are perrrfecto. I know alot of times it's the home stretch and you wanna just finish but it's important (as i'm sure you know).

2. it's a 19mm bolt, don't use a standard socket (i've seen this before, strip that CS bolt and you're done).

3. Make sure you get a good feel at what the Timing belt slack feels like. So when you put it on, you'll have a feel for how tight / loose it should be. Some guys have put it on too loose and it's skipped teeths.

4. Don't do any work until you get that Crank pulley off, you may need to drive it to a shop and have them hit it w/ their impact gun. May the Honda gods be with you upon your glorious battle Vs the Cs bolt. (I bought an oem pulley holder, Best $40 ever if you work on hondas).

5. My last advice is, if your forcing somthing... it's probably not right.
Just curious but I saw it mentioned to remove one of the engine mounts, is this just to get better access or is it really necessary cause i'm looking to do the timing belt/water pump on my teg next month. I have a helms.
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