Major '88 problem
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
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Major '88 problem
Hey,
So I bought an '88 LS about 8 months ago and it worked fine until recently. Now it has been randomly stalling while driving...it gives me the check engine light...power brakes And steering die. It usually takes about 10 minutes for it to start back up, and for those 10 mins i try and turn it on, but the engine just does not ignite and it keeps giving me the check engine light. I believe all my fluids are fine and when it does stall the temperature gauge read fine and the engine didnt feel freakishly hot. Also, in correlation to this, sometimes my car will drive perfectly fine, but if i turn it off SOMETIMES it just wont start back on right away (I.E. at the gas station to fill the car). It does the same thing it does after it stalls. It just does not ignite and gives me the check engine light. The thing is , it seems so random and I Have no idea what it could be, anyone have any ideas?
So I bought an '88 LS about 8 months ago and it worked fine until recently. Now it has been randomly stalling while driving...it gives me the check engine light...power brakes And steering die. It usually takes about 10 minutes for it to start back up, and for those 10 mins i try and turn it on, but the engine just does not ignite and it keeps giving me the check engine light. I believe all my fluids are fine and when it does stall the temperature gauge read fine and the engine didnt feel freakishly hot. Also, in correlation to this, sometimes my car will drive perfectly fine, but if i turn it off SOMETIMES it just wont start back on right away (I.E. at the gas station to fill the car). It does the same thing it does after it stalls. It just does not ignite and gives me the check engine light. The thing is , it seems so random and I Have no idea what it could be, anyone have any ideas?
My GS-R
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 58
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From: Afghanistan
Welcom to HAN. The first step in fixing this problem would be to get the CEL code and find out what's triggering it. This link will show you how to do that. Having this code or codes will give you a direction of where to start looking.
Also when you're attempting to start your engine does it sound like it's trying to start? or is it just turning? do you get backfires?
Are you moving when your engine "stalls"?
But gun to my head, if I had to guess bassed on what you've said, the first place I'd check would be your fuel pump.
Also when you're attempting to start your engine does it sound like it's trying to start? or is it just turning? do you get backfires?
Are you moving when your engine "stalls"?
But gun to my head, if I had to guess bassed on what you've said, the first place I'd check would be your fuel pump.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
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Hey, thanks, but a couple quick questions:
Here is what I found...
What one do I stick the paper clip into?
And when I do , do this, does the car actually have to be dead and have my CEL light on for the codes to start flashing? Or can I do it fine, even when my car is running?
Here is what I found...
What one do I stick the paper clip into?
And when I do , do this, does the car actually have to be dead and have my CEL light on for the codes to start flashing? Or can I do it fine, even when my car is running?
My GS-R
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Afghanistan
Hey after seeing your pictures and relizing that you have an 88 I found this
For 88-91 Honda's and 86-93 Acura's:
The ECU's on these cars actually have a neat little window right on the computer case. No need to jump here- just turn it to on, and watch it right there through that window.
For both steps above, the output will be in a Morse code style of long and short lights. For example, 2 long, pause, 3 short is 23.
For 88-91 Honda's and 86-93 Acura's:
The ECU's on these cars actually have a neat little window right on the computer case. No need to jump here- just turn it to on, and watch it right there through that window.
For both steps above, the output will be in a Morse code style of long and short lights. For example, 2 long, pause, 3 short is 23.
My GS-R
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 58
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From: Afghanistan
I've never worked on an 88, but I assume it would be somewhere on the passenger side maybe behind some plastic molding attached to the side of the body. Not sure on this. Anyone know?
But anyway what you're looking for is a brass box with wires running into it. If you find that then look for that "window" that will give you your CEL code.
But anyway what you're looking for is a brass box with wires running into it. If you find that then look for that "window" that will give you your CEL code.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
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Diagnostic
Hey,
Well I finally gave up and just had my friend do a diagnostic for me... Here is what he came up with....
- Recommend coil and ignitor replacement. Low outpout from coil.
- Recommend main relay
- Alternator output insufficient when idle. Recommend alternator.
- Rear window wiper inoperative
- Rear window defrost inoperative
- Left turn signal intermittantly malfunctioning. Recommend combonation switch replacement
- Recommend power steering fluid flush
- Oil leaking from front engine seals under timing belt cover. Recommend replacement of timing belt and related components
- Recommend thermostat replacement
_ Recommend full 30k mile interval service
- Recommend throttle body service
- Recommend intake system service
- Recommend PCV valve replacement by age/mileage
- Passenger side outer CV boot is split open, recommend axle replacement
- Drivers side outer CV boot is cracked, recommend replacement
Since I don't have all the money for labor costs and just to buy the parts in general, what would you suggest I start to fix? It's an old car and don't expect it to be perfect, I would just rather save money and fix the stuff that is causing my car to die.
Well I finally gave up and just had my friend do a diagnostic for me... Here is what he came up with....
- Recommend coil and ignitor replacement. Low outpout from coil.
- Recommend main relay
- Alternator output insufficient when idle. Recommend alternator.
- Rear window wiper inoperative
- Rear window defrost inoperative
- Left turn signal intermittantly malfunctioning. Recommend combonation switch replacement
- Recommend power steering fluid flush
- Oil leaking from front engine seals under timing belt cover. Recommend replacement of timing belt and related components
- Recommend thermostat replacement
_ Recommend full 30k mile interval service
- Recommend throttle body service
- Recommend intake system service
- Recommend PCV valve replacement by age/mileage
- Passenger side outer CV boot is split open, recommend axle replacement
- Drivers side outer CV boot is cracked, recommend replacement
Since I don't have all the money for labor costs and just to buy the parts in general, what would you suggest I start to fix? It's an old car and don't expect it to be perfect, I would just rather save money and fix the stuff that is causing my car to die.
My GS-R
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Afghanistan
Going off what your friend told you, and in order to keep your car from just dying on you, I would recommend you check/replace the electrical components he listed.The other things he listed (ie. CV boot, and power steering flush) although important this would not explain your car spontaneously dying on you. You need to be looking at the three components that make your engine run: Spark, Compression, and Fuel.B/c your car is randomly dying and then re-starting kind of rules out the compression issue. From there look at spark and fuel issues.This is why I recommend tackling the electrical issues listed. But i still stand by my original prognosis of fuel pump issues. It could be faulty wiring to the fuel pump or maybe the fuel pump is going bad.Did your friend give you the CEL codes?