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Old 10-09-2006, 06:27 PM
  #21  
highspeed
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Originally Posted by highspeed
Thanks guys. I did a compression test and with 9:1comp pistons and not much drive time on the car I have 170,175,175,168 and I have not driven the car out of the drive way. I will take alook but I think that I have a catch can because the guy that I bought the car from already had it turboed but the catch can was disconnected. I did not think anything of it till I rebuilt it
here is where I posted the comp. My parts come in tomorrow but I have to wait till weds to install everything. THanks
Old 10-09-2006, 08:06 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by highspeed
here is where I posted the comp. My parts come in tomorrow but I have to wait till weds to install everything. THanks
I don't care about the compression...I want to know leakdown numbers.
Old 10-10-2006, 05:26 AM
  #23  
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You posted the compression numbers now post up the leakdown numbers.

I still want to know the condition of the turbo. New, used, rebuilt, ebay ssautocrap.
Old 10-10-2006, 07:29 PM
  #24  
highspeed
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talked to the shop that first tune the car with the turbo that is new about 4 months ago(newly rebuilt by one of the guys at the shop). He said that it sounds like the oil rings are not working and I am getting good compression but the oil rings are not scavenging the oil off of the wall and I am getting alot of blowby. I am going to take the breather off and plug it tomorrow as well as putting on the new parts to see what that does. If that doesn't cure it then I will have to look at this possibility. I still do not have the exact numbers for the leak down but the guy that did it originally is coming over to my house and we will do it again. What do you guys think about this possibility of the oil rings. He said that the rings which are JE rings, are known to not sometimes and he thinks that I should get oem oil rings and try them. THanks
Old 10-11-2006, 07:00 AM
  #25  
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JE rings are fine, but there is a possibility they never seated right. All your symptoms sound like bad piston rings.
Old 10-11-2006, 03:05 PM
  #26  
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yeah that is what thought and the shop that I deal with said to get oem oil rings that were .25 mm oversized and overlap them. I have good compression on all cylinders but just alot of oil on 2 of the cylinders(on 1 and 2) But if I have to change the oil rings I am going to change all of the rings to oem. What do you all think
Old 10-11-2006, 09:37 PM
  #27  
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I think you should change them, but don't listen to what they are saying about buying oversized rings and overlapping them. Buy the right OEM rings, make sure they are gapped correctly, stagger them as described in the service manual and you should be good.

Compression results only test the top ring, so it is a little misleading when trying to troubleshoot an oil burning problem.
Old 10-12-2006, 03:50 AM
  #28  
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Thanks Schmoo. I have had to take this motor apart twice already and I can do it in half a day. I did not like the overlap idea either. What would you say the gap on the oil rings should be at the most? If I have anymore questions I will let you know. I just want this car to run problem and smoke free. Thanks
Old 10-12-2006, 09:47 AM
  #29  
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Here is a good article for ring gapping: http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/ringgap.htm

Then refer to the service manual on the correct placement of the gaps on the cylinder.
Old 10-12-2006, 05:52 PM
  #30  
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Thanks man. I got the oem rings in today and now I have to take it all apart for the 3rd time( the first was for rebuild then for ring gaps ontop of each other). Well I seem to have plenty of patience and love to learn so thanks so much everyone. If there is anything else that I need to be aware of let me know. I am going to check all of the bores and double check everything. I do have some piston slap on the number one or number 2 cylinder. I am not sure which one. DO you think that if one of the oil rings was broken would it cause more slap than is necessary. I ask that because I would here it slap and then it would go away once it was warm and then some times it would not go away at all until I pushed the gas and rev it up but when it would go back to idle it would start slapping again. I am wondering if the cylinder that I had to hone out longer that the others to get some fine scratches out maybe took to much off. Thanks



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