I am buying some DC Sport Headers for my 97 GS-R.. whats the diff between the 2 piece and the 1 piece..which is better??? i plan to go with the ceramic coating since its a little cheaper.. and the best price i found is 283.00 so if u know of a cheaper spot ..send me there .. thanks

 

i like the 1 piece because they look a whole lot nicer.

 

piece may be a little easier to install, not sure since I never had a 1 piece before. But I immagine a little more fanagling to get the 1 piece into place. Power wise, probably not even noticeable.

 

1PC OVER 2PC
if u wanna get crazy its lighter due to flanges.....BUT its not really noticable.
i went with one just cuz i like the look better BUT its harder to install. if u wanna bust your ass for a better look go 1pc. ALSO 1 pc there less chance of a leak

 

I went for the DC Sports 2pc for the ease of install.

I have had absolutely zero problems with leaks and despite an otherwise stock motor, I'm very pleased with the results.

If you follow the instructions carefully and torque all the hardware to the correct specs in the correct order, you'll be fine.

 

i've heard installing on other forums that headers are hard to install... is this true? when i look at it, it looks somewhat simple. but im not sure. should i get new headers installed proffessionally?

 

It's not hard at all if you've got the right tools.
It can be rather time-consuming, however.

To do it right, you'd need:
* WD-40 or Liquid Wrench
* A good metric ratchet and box-wrench set
* 2-ton Jackstands and floor jack
* An appropriately sized wrench for the oxygen sensor
* Mechanic's gloves would be helpful.
* A round file (I needed one to enlarge the bolt-hole on the flange at the base of the header.)

If you plan on keeping the car and continuing to work on, buy a factory service manual from Helms.. so you have all the diagnostic info and torque specs for every component on the car. If this is the only job you'll do other than basic maintenance, a Haynes manual would be sufficient.

 

Not hard, however if you strip a head bolt, or run into a pesky head bolt that does not want to break free, you run the risk of stripping it or breaking it, in which both of those instances makes the install suck. W/regards to wd-4o and what not it can still happen.

 

Yes there is that possibility of stripping or snapping a stud, which is why you should never use a cheater bar when working on the head. Torquing precisely to spec is very important, as is tightening the flange nuts in the correct order. :yes:

If you decide to do the install, spray each stud with WD-40 when the engine has cooled down most if not all the way. Use the little straw to get the lubricant soaked into the threads around each flange nut. Then let it stand overnight. I did two rounds of that pre-soak before removing the stock header and the nuts came off very smoothly with just a box wrench

 

I have the 1 piece on my gsr because it was cheaper and installing it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. MY car is pretty low and I couldn't get it jacked up as high as I wanted so I took the driver side wheel off to help me get the header under. And then I had my girl help route it up from the top and it went in smoothly without even scratching it. Just don't forget to put the donut gasket back on the new header before attaching it to the cat or you'll get a bad rattle. learned that the hard way haha