Hey guys, I'm lined up to purchase a 1994 Integra Ls. Since this is going to be my first integra, I was wondering what I should look for when I go to look at it? I'm aware of the typical honda rust in the 1/4, of which it has none, and the possible hatch rattling issues. The mileage is moderate (144 k) but its extremely clean and void of dings. Any suggestions on what else I should watch out for would be greatly appreciated.

 

definately make sure that the 90k maitenance has been done... if you can get proof it was done somehow, that would be best.

i would suggest you do a compression/leakdown test if you can manage it somehow. I would suggest you have a loyal mechanic to give it a once over after you purchase it as well...

also if it is a GSR, it may have a little rattle between 3k and 4k, it's just the heat shield and is easily solved.

the steering wheel may wobble a little bit during braking.... it's the brakes... unless they have been changed out from stock, they will generally cause a slight shimmy in the wheel during braking.

also look out for any lights (check engine, ABS, mait reqd) and be sure to inqure when they came on and what they did about it. besides that i can't think of anything just be careful and look at every bit you can

 

I bought a used 97 Integra with 120k.
- Compare the car when it is cold and then after 15 minutes of warm up. I read a lot about transmissions shifting hard and then slipping after the warm up. Be sure the D4 indicator bulb is lit when in gear. It warns of transmission problems. I am replacing mine this week.
- Be ready for the ABS Modulator/Accumulator to go out ($1700). Someone was talking about class action over that one.
- Check out the brakes, especially the left front.
- And I had most of my heat shields removed because of rattling.

 

Thanks for the responses guys, really helps a lot. Hopefully I can pick this thing up.. there's a few other people intersted in it so I'm not sure at this point.

 

Just a general note before I hit the specifics:

I have made a point of buying well-maintained used cars and keeping them for a very long time. In my experience, I have come to the point where I only consider cars where the owner has kept full maintenance and repair records. This may sound neurotic, but I suggest that you limit your search to the same criteria.

Record-keeping provides a pretty useful insight into the mentality of the owner. If they're sufficient organized to keep good records, they've probably taken good care of the car in general. I tested 3 or 4 DC*s before buying my 97 DC4. The owners with organized and complete records also had the strongest motors, while those with spotty records felt shop-worn and abused.

As you know from your Accord, the key to a happy Honda is preventative maintenance and routine oil changes with quality fluids and filters. I still recommend a compression check across all 4 cylinders and a vigorous test drive to put the car through it's paces.

The single most important thing I can think of, given the mileage and year, is the 90K service in which the timing belt, tensioner assembly and water pump are replaced. If you don't have concrete proof that this was done by now, I would walk away, clean body or no.

Also, if the car is on it's original clutch (I've seen them go to 150K, so it's possible), it will nearing the end of it's life, so factor in money for a replacement or upgrade. While I'm on the topic of the drivetrain, pay attention to the shift action on your test drive.

It's not out of the question to have a balky second-gear synchro.. so test that shift at full-throttle (be somewhat sympathetic when you do this, remember that you don't own the car yet.) The driveshaft joints are also a potential issue, based on mileage and age. Listen for clicks and pops as you accelerate through a fairly sharp turn.

Chassis-wise, the gaskets around the tailights can get saturated in a really heavy rain, causing water to weep into the rear hatch. I'd inspect the spare-tire well, looking for surface rust at the base of the rear bulkhead near the jack. If water has been left to stand, you'll see mildew or rust. Also check the undersides of the doors; confirm that the drain holes are clear and free of surface rust.

Also, because the car is getting up there in years, some of suspension bushings may be degrading to the point of replacement. The rear trailing arm bushings can be inspected with a mirror and flashlight, but getting the car on a lift would be better IMO.

I've mentioned these things to be excruciatingly thorough. h: One the whole, the DC4 is a very robust car, most of these potential issues are purely a product of the car's advancing age. Once remedied, you're good to go for another 150K or more.

 

^ uh... yeah what he said