thats what im saying, want to rebuild up the internals of the gsr but dont know where to go first.

 

ive been looking at piston kits for my car, looking at a wiseco kit. but on the size it says 81 or 81.5. think my motor is 81 stock so would it be bettr to go any bigger? If i get bigger what else would i have to do to make it fit. also some of the compression numbers are 8-7-1, 9-8-1, and 12-0-1. what do these mean and if im going turbo which do i want?

 

290, at the wheels?
N/A? On a street-driven car?

Keep dreaming.

You're looking at 13:1 compression, requiring 100 or 106 octane race gas.
That gas will sell at about $6.00 / gallon and due to the lead content, it will quickly overwhelm any catalytic converter, rendering it dead and polluting grossly. Your idle will be lumpy as hell and your bottom end will suffer.

Assuming you're using a stock bore B18C1, you'll be running on the ragged edge of volumetric efficiency. Think of the powerband for the IDRC all-motor class cars. It's all from 5K to 9K, which for the street will require taller gear ratios and more speeds. Budget a couple thousand dollars or so for the Quaife 6spd gearset for the Y80 transmission.

I can easily see the build cost eclipsing $10k. In all honesty, a K24 block and K20A head combo would be a better bet for mid 200s at the wheels.. but even then you're committing $5K to the drivetrain alone.

That same $5000 will build a very strong turbocharged GSR.

If you've got a $7K budget and smog isn't an issue, call up DRAG or RevHard and buy their bolt-on turbo kit. With about 240whp at your disposal, you'll be very well off in both torque and horsepower gains that suit your stock gear ratios.

I mention $7K as a budget to have funds in reserve to rebuild the bottom-end stronger should the worst happen. With a set of forged internals (maintaining the stock bore & stroke) and a sleeved block, you'll have the ability to turn up the boost beyond 7psi. At that point, the only limitation is fuel management... bearing in mind that bigger injectors (550cc/min plus) are less accurate at low throttle openings.

 

Stay with the stock bore dimension if you're turbocharging the motor without reinforcing the cylinder bores. You need cylinder wall thickness to contain the increased cylinder pressure when the motor is under load.

The compression numbers must be 8.7:1, 9.8:1 and 12.0:1 respectively.
The higher the compression ratio (CR), the greater the mechanical "squeeze" on the air-fuel mixture within the cylinder.

12:1 is suitable for a naturally aspirated build, while 8.7:1 is better for a high-boost turbocharged application. My advice is to stay relatively close to the B18C1's stock CR, and go with the 9.7:1 pistons. It will lower static compression enough to provide and additional margin of safety, but without compromising low-rpm power production.

The bigger question in my mind is, if you're going to tear down the block and install forged rods & pistons, why not commit to either:
a) aftermarket sleeves (Darton) or
b) at least a cylinder bore brace?

 

well reading this other posts it seems like he wants FI...
low compression pistons ftw

 

Within reason. If you're running between 7-14 psi, there's no over-riding need to go all the way down to 8.7:1.

That said, I'm not entirely sure that he realizes that it's either a forced induction build OR an all-motor build. The goals and parts used are diametrically opposed to one another. To wit:

 

yea good point dave, gsr converters...wat is it?

fi=easier and cheaper
na=fairly difficult and expensive
(both from what i understand)

 

dont forget that with na it is near impossible to get the same power goals as fi...
unless u have say skunk2's R&D team behind u as well as their pockets

 

going with a turbo from maybe greddy. maybe my horsepower numbers that ui want are a little far fetched but thats why i ask yu guys for your opinions cus im new at this. prolly wont run more than 6-7 psi, just want a daily driver that can kick ass when needed. wanna go to the track and not get laughed at. so far this is what ive came up with, skunk2 cam gears, skunk2 camshafts stage 2, skunk2 valve springs, skunk2 retainers, eagle connecting rods, and a wiseco piston kit. all this is not deffinate cus im finding more and more stuff out, but so far how do u think this is. thanks

 

i think this will be useful for u,
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=220973

das schmoo owned it up, hope that helps