Troubleshooting Intermittent Startup Problem on a Classic/Antique
I bought this car (1988 Acura Integra LS 1.6L) new and have treated it well (no racing, followed maintenance sched, OEM parts (in most cases), etc.) I've debated on whether to consider it a classic or antique but (despite its almost new appearance) may have to start considering it a junkyard candidate because of an intermittent startup problem.
I've read the threads on this issue and have attempted to investigate some possible solutions but haven't solved it yet. For the past three years it would occasionally start for about 1-2 seconds then die (usually happens after it has been parked for a couple of days). After about 5 minutes it would start w/o a problem. The car has never stalled on me while driving and this inconvenient startup problem was tolerated because it happened so infrequently.
Recently, however, this problem has been occuring more frequently (i.e., after driving a short while, stopping, and attempting to restart engine) and the wait time has increased to 15 - 20 minutes.
Over the past six months I have replaced the plug wires (OEM), distributor (rebuilt), rotor (OEM), fuel filter (aftermarket). Dealer and local mechanics can't diagnose the problem as it always starts on queue at the shops. There is no clicking noise when attempting to start. I installed an alarm about 17 years ago but a mechanic (about two to three years ago) did something to cause it not to work so I removed the electronic parts of the alarm from under the dash.
So, in conclusion, I have an intermittent startup problem that has lasted about 3 years, is occurring with greater frequency, requiring longer wait times before working, and occurs whether the engine is hot or cold.
Needless to say, I would be most grateful for help in solving this problem. Otherwise, it’s just a matter of time before it leaves me stranded and riding in a tow truck.
Thanks in advance.
I've read the threads on this issue and have attempted to investigate some possible solutions but haven't solved it yet. For the past three years it would occasionally start for about 1-2 seconds then die (usually happens after it has been parked for a couple of days). After about 5 minutes it would start w/o a problem. The car has never stalled on me while driving and this inconvenient startup problem was tolerated because it happened so infrequently.
Recently, however, this problem has been occuring more frequently (i.e., after driving a short while, stopping, and attempting to restart engine) and the wait time has increased to 15 - 20 minutes.
Over the past six months I have replaced the plug wires (OEM), distributor (rebuilt), rotor (OEM), fuel filter (aftermarket). Dealer and local mechanics can't diagnose the problem as it always starts on queue at the shops. There is no clicking noise when attempting to start. I installed an alarm about 17 years ago but a mechanic (about two to three years ago) did something to cause it not to work so I removed the electronic parts of the alarm from under the dash.
So, in conclusion, I have an intermittent startup problem that has lasted about 3 years, is occurring with greater frequency, requiring longer wait times before working, and occurs whether the engine is hot or cold.
Needless to say, I would be most grateful for help in solving this problem. Otherwise, it’s just a matter of time before it leaves me stranded and riding in a tow truck.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by tw3208; Oct 12, 2005 at 03:22 PM. Reason: Incorrect photo attached
Hi, m735is.
When it doesn't start it cranks normally. There are no "Check Engine" or other warning lights.
It has a 5 speed standard transmission. Some time back the clutch started making a noise when disengaged and idling. This was about 6 months ago and it has since stopped doing this. I believe the mechanic said that I might need a throwout bearing.
Been looking through my Haynes Repair Manual and I think I can find the clutch switch so I will check this out tomorrow. I've just found a picture of what the starter looks like so I'll examine the terminals tomorrow as well.
Thanks for the suggestions!
When it doesn't start it cranks normally. There are no "Check Engine" or other warning lights.
It has a 5 speed standard transmission. Some time back the clutch started making a noise when disengaged and idling. This was about 6 months ago and it has since stopped doing this. I believe the mechanic said that I might need a throwout bearing.
Been looking through my Haynes Repair Manual and I think I can find the clutch switch so I will check this out tomorrow. I've just found a picture of what the starter looks like so I'll examine the terminals tomorrow as well.
Thanks for the suggestions!
A new Main Relay was just installed and the car started. As the problem is/was an intermittent one, only time will tell if a defective main relay was the cause of the problem. Hopefully, this will be my last post on this matter and future viewers of this thread can benefit from the above exchange and the info below.
The old main relay didn't appear to have any broken solder points as others from this forum have observed. I did have someone trained in electronics test the old relay and he assured me that it had a short in it.
This post from Kaspin, https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/a...p/t-43947.html , instructs on how to perform the repair on an Accord, Civic, and Prelude. Most all steps apply toward working on an '88 Integra with the important exception that the main relay is not easily visible once the fuse panel is removed.
Once you remove the fuse panel you will see several relays attached to a rack (your perspective will be from lying down on the floorboard looking up toward the left side of the car) . The Main Relay (n.b., according to the guy at the parts store, Honda had two different main relays for 1988 models so pull the relay and then give the part number to the supplier) was the last one on the rack (i.e., closest to the firewall) with several yellow, black, and yellow/black wires going into the plug. You have to remove 2 or 3 10mm bolts to detach the rack. Once this is done you can reposition the rack assembly so that a 10mm ratchet wrench can be used to remove the bolt securing the main relay to the rack.
The lowest price I could find from Acura on the part was $62 (online from Delray (Florida) Acura -- good source). I ended up paying the local CarQuest parts store $40 for a new one. The manufacturer of the new one was the same as the original part in the car (Mitsuba, part number RZ-0042 12V).
I was advised to apply White Lithium on the contacts of the main relay. This is recommended if body rust (or any other defect) might allow moisture to reach the main relay.
The start terminals were OK and there were no problems (that were visually obvious) with the clutch switch.
Hope the above helps anyone unfortunate enough to run into this problem.
The old main relay didn't appear to have any broken solder points as others from this forum have observed. I did have someone trained in electronics test the old relay and he assured me that it had a short in it.
This post from Kaspin, https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/a...p/t-43947.html , instructs on how to perform the repair on an Accord, Civic, and Prelude. Most all steps apply toward working on an '88 Integra with the important exception that the main relay is not easily visible once the fuse panel is removed.
Once you remove the fuse panel you will see several relays attached to a rack (your perspective will be from lying down on the floorboard looking up toward the left side of the car) . The Main Relay (n.b., according to the guy at the parts store, Honda had two different main relays for 1988 models so pull the relay and then give the part number to the supplier) was the last one on the rack (i.e., closest to the firewall) with several yellow, black, and yellow/black wires going into the plug. You have to remove 2 or 3 10mm bolts to detach the rack. Once this is done you can reposition the rack assembly so that a 10mm ratchet wrench can be used to remove the bolt securing the main relay to the rack.
The lowest price I could find from Acura on the part was $62 (online from Delray (Florida) Acura -- good source). I ended up paying the local CarQuest parts store $40 for a new one. The manufacturer of the new one was the same as the original part in the car (Mitsuba, part number RZ-0042 12V).
I was advised to apply White Lithium on the contacts of the main relay. This is recommended if body rust (or any other defect) might allow moisture to reach the main relay.
The start terminals were OK and there were no problems (that were visually obvious) with the clutch switch.
Hope the above helps anyone unfortunate enough to run into this problem.


