recharging a/c yourself...
recharge kits are fine as long as you dont expect the most from your a/c system, if the system was empty that means there is a good sized leak plus if you dont have a guage you can easily over charge the system and hurt the compressor or other parts of the system,also when all the freon is gone and the compressor is running that leak becomes a inlet for air. next thing you know you have a onboard air compressor ... air in the a/c system will decrease your space for freon . the proper way to recharge the a/c system is to pull the system into a vacuum and this process is done for approx 15 min to remove moisture and air in the system. even with a full charge moisture and air will cause the system to not cool properly.
Hey all,
I was reading through the posts on recharging the A/C system on the Integra and wondered if anyone knows which sysytem my car has, the r134a or the r12. My service manual swears its an r134a but I saw so many posts claiming otherwise that I thought I'd ask before going off to buy the recharge kit.
Thanks
I was reading through the posts on recharging the A/C system on the Integra and wondered if anyone knows which sysytem my car has, the r134a or the r12. My service manual swears its an r134a but I saw so many posts claiming otherwise that I thought I'd ask before going off to buy the recharge kit.
Thanks
134 has larger fittings than r-12, and thanks "tilt" it is so illegal to dump freon to the atmosphere, $10,000.00 fine from epa if caught, granted it's hard to get caught but still. and over charging is a serious prob. to the extent of blowing lines and or comp. sounds like you did a good job but you did have some luck as well. i'm ase certified and still scared of a/c, if not cooling properly it could benefit to recharge the system, if a newer car there probably would be a leak or a compenent prob. but on early to mid 90's it's probably about time for a freshun up! and on the cost of the retro fit from 12-134, you are advised to change receiver dryer, o-rings, and freon, most shops will charge you to recover oil freon and pull a vac. on system, this would be the reason for the high charge, i would still shop around though, as your friend could be getting the shaft
if your a/c doesnt work, i wouldnt even bother tryin to mess with it yourself unless you have a really good knowledge of how it works.....the mod that fixed his a/c actually had a no brainer since it was empty....but if you guys just start adding r-12/134a to your systems, you run the danger of over-charging your systems, which means what? well, super high head pressures in your a/c compressor, which means what? BOOM!!!!!! then you blow the side of the compressors out, cuz most honda compressors are sanden rotary type, which means a huge mess of pag or ester oil all over your engine compartment, then you need to spend lots and lots of money, replacing your condensers, cuz its impossible to flush metal chunks out of them, flushing the rest of your system, possibly having to replace your evaporators, expansion valves, driers, and all that fun stuff.......if you guys still wanna do this yourself, let me know, ill get you as much info on the specs of the systems as possible.....(i work for an auto air distribution center) good luck.....:thumbup:
Originally posted by ant6177
Also, each time i recharged an a/c system i emptied it by releasing both low and high side valve, making sure not to breathe any of that stuff.
Also, each time i recharged an a/c system i emptied it by releasing both low and high side valve, making sure not to breathe any of that stuff.
Originally posted by LeftCorner
Overcharging the system is the same as not having any freon, the A/C won't blow cold.
Overcharging the system is the same as not having any freon, the A/C won't blow cold.
Originally posted by mrhonda_187
Is it true that the r134a system runs at a much higher pressure than the old r12? Mechanic wants major coin to convert my buddy's old Accord from r12 to r134a.
I would think there would be a bleed valve once it reached pressure? Agreed, gauge is safest.
Is it true that the r134a system runs at a much higher pressure than the old r12? Mechanic wants major coin to convert my buddy's old Accord from r12 to r134a.
I would think there would be a bleed valve once it reached pressure? Agreed, gauge is safest.
Originally posted by drdavidge
my ac eventually gets cold but it takes like a good 5-10 mins normally. would adding refrigerant speed up the process?
my ac eventually gets cold but it takes like a good 5-10 mins normally. would adding refrigerant speed up the process?
KROME: i've never checked, but do '94+ integra's use TXV or orifice tube systems?
hondas in general have actual valves....no orfice tubes....
in fact, i think orfice tubes was a big gm, and ford thing....
some jags use them, but i havent ever come across a japanese
import that uses them yet........
in fact, i think orfice tubes was a big gm, and ford thing....
some jags use them, but i havent ever come across a japanese
import that uses them yet........


