IS there any thread hanging out? If there is trying grabbing it with vice grips and be careful with it. If your local I can try drilling it and tapping it. Im In Massachussetts.

 

No the head did not have to be removed. The studs are like your valve cover studs. Threaded on both sides and blank in the center. Once it snaps like that it has to be drilled out. Re-tapped and replaced. It's tedious measure cause the tech can't fuck up while re-tapping. No room for error type thing. It has to be done slow and right the 1st time.

 

Most shops shouldn't have a problem removing them without drilling them out.

 

I had the same thing happen to me. I used a small extractor bit. It was not easy. I first used a drill bit to drill into the brooken bolt. After that I put the extractor in and carefully romeved the bolt. It took some time because you have to be very precise with the drill bit but it beats taking off the whole head and sending it the shop.

 

Mine was so fucked the last resort had to be used of drilling I immagine. I hear what you all are saying though.

 

ok I have a leak in my exhaust as far as I kno. I have aftermarket megan gaskets. Would it be wise to put stockers back on it? Would that stop the leak? Thanks

 

try it... i'm still missing the one stud, but i used the stock gasket and it seal it up

 

I would use some High heat silicone for now and call it a day. YOu can just buy a drill bit and an extractor and do it yourself. Remove the ac braket and driverside mount and I guess jack up the motor enough to have clearence.

 

yeah drill and extractor would work except those bolts are like 10 grade I think, nearly as hard as a typical bit. if you go that route get high quality bit. Otherwise it be a real pain in the ass and will be hard to get the hole centered.

 

All that needs to be done is what Teece says above.

You don't need to take the head off, and unless you have tried to drill it out and got into the threads it doesn't need to be re-tapped. I had the same happen as you and everyone else who's chimed in. The only thing not mentioned here that I needed to do was remove the radiator so I could get the drill in straight. You have to be carefull and use a very small bit to start a hole that you can keep in the center of the broken stud. Once you have a small hole you can use whatever size is required by the ez-out screw extractor. Be generous with WD-40 or similar penetrating oil as well.

The only reason this will not work is if the stud is REALLY seized, which I'm guessing it's not since the others came out just fine.