so i need to replace the timing belt so i ask a friend he says that he will help me and that he has done this a million times before. i get the new belt and he comes over and we take off the guards, except for the lower one that we cant get off because the flywheel is in the way. my friend says that he will come back tomorrow and get the rest of it done. its three weeks later and he wont answer his phone and every time i go over his girlfriend saays hes not there. so he is officially a piece of human garbage and i need to find out how to replace my timing belt, but keep this in mind : i cant take it to a shop because i have no money and the car is not drivable. my car is a 91 integra ls...please help me

 

here is a link to a site with a 93 integra service manual which should be the same as ur 91 b/c the cars are practically identical and it should have how to change your timing belt.

http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/

you just have to make an account and login to download it

 

I hope you're mechanically inclined.

 

Sounds like your 'friend' discovered the part of this job that stops most people from doing it themselves.

The steps are relatively easy, except for one:

There's one bolt holding the crankshaft pulley (the flywheel is on the transmission end of the engine) that kicks everyone's ass. To free it you need two things:

1) a special crankshaft pulley wrench that fits that hex hole in the pulley to hold it while you put a wrench through it onto the crankshaft bolt.* (search for honda crankshaft wrench, unfortunately they ain't cheap at $70)

2) A lot of torque to loosen that bolt. That bolt still has a 180ft/lbs of torque holding it when it's installed to the tightening spec. But it's gained more just from use.

The bolt tightens counter to the rotation of the shaft, so it can tighten itself. In very incremental, tiny amounts, that bolt gains torque with each hard acceleration. Perhaps only .01ft/lbs at a time, but it adds up. It usually takes a high powered impact wrench to free it, or an extra long breaker bar (4') which means you gotta get the car far enough off the ground to work the bar.

* Some swear that jamming the flywheel with a sturdy screwdriver or bolt is a sufficient substitute, but others warn of potential FW damage. Your call.

Search this forum for other timing belt threads, there's plenty.

 

TIMING BELTS FOR DUMMIES(almost) ('91 Teg)

Disconnect battery neg terminal.
Remove accessory belts: Power Steering, A/C, and Alternator
(keep track of nuts and bolts by putting any you remove into small plastic bags and putting back in their treads where possible)
Unbolt PS Pump, move aside (with the hoses connected move it as far to the right and back and tie it down)
Remove valve cover, wrap in a plastic bag and set aside
That's easy, now for the tough part.
Lift the car
Remove left front wheel
Secure the crankshaft using: Crankshaft wrench, or securing the flywheel.
Loosen and remove crankshaft pulley bolt. This 19mm bolt will require a great deal of force. If you don't have 600 ft/lb impact wrench, try a 24" 1/2" drive flex bar with a cheater pipe.
You might also be able to leave the car down by using a long extension on the socket wrench to clear the body, you might consider a 3/4" drive for this method.
Remove the Pulley and Timebelt cover bolts and belt covers.

Looking at the engine's exposed side, the gears you see, starting at the top left, are:
Exhaust Cam, Intake Cam, Water Pump, Belt Tensioner (roller, not gear), crankshaft.

Remove Timing belt. Check belt tensioner for free turning. If it binds, it should be replaced. Not replacing it will lead to early failure of the belt.
While you're in here you really should replace the water pump -- just a $50 dollar part now versus having to do all this work again when you nearly melt your engine later.

Align crankshaft to TDC mark (google it) (release fly wheel if you used it to secure shaft earlier)

For stock cam gears: Each gear has two arrows, the one marked up goes where?
The other two arrows align to each other for factory spec.

Adjustable gears vary.

If you don't have everything aligned properly you will probably destroy your engine.

Install the new timing belt (There should be no slack between the gears except between the shaft and the pump, where the tensioner will tighten it.)

Turn the crank through a few revolutions using a wrench. Check alignment points, adjust as necessary.

Replace the covers and reverse above steps.