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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 03:59 PM
  #11  
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hey since i want 300+hp at the crank what do you think i should go for? the one of non vtec sedans or the gsr sedan??? also spoon sports they are all about non turbo cars right???

i really want a bad ass 300+hp integra sedan street car.
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 04:41 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by pushnlacs
i was told with the civic a low-mid 12 secound street car isnt possible thanks again
:eh:

WestCoastStyle has a 12 second four door daily driver civic.
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 09:02 PM
  #13  
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so a mid 12 sec. integra sedan should be possible for sure right?

thanks
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 10:18 PM
  #14  
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Should be if you have the money....
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 08:16 AM
  #15  
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4-drs are the only way to go..... in my opinion.
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 07:28 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Shmoo
Body kits = :down:

Put your money into something useful such as performance. A stock looking 4 door sedan with 350 hp is more badass than a fast and furious rice mobile.
:werd:
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 10:20 PM
  #17  
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definitely possible, but like others have said i hope you have plenty of money to spend on it. if you wanna go turbo i'd get the ls. if you want to go all motor i'd get the gsr. yes you can turbo the gsr but the ls is a much better motor for turbo as far as reliability and ease is concerned IMO.
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Old Feb 13, 2005 | 07:08 AM
  #18  
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the B18c is the japanese ITR motor. the USDM GSR motor is B18C1.
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Old Feb 13, 2005 | 07:12 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Shmoo
In terms of modding a base model LS sedan, I would go with the coupe. Much lighter and they look better, IMO.
the sedan weighs 60 lbs more than the coupe. so weight isn't a factor.
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Old Feb 13, 2005 | 12:23 PM
  #20  
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The weight penalty of a 3rd gen sedan (DB7 / DB8) is minimal compared to the coupe (DC2 / DC4) Both the sedans and coupes look great IMO.

To hit 300 at the wheels, I'd actually start with an LS or GS model. GSR sedans are comparatively rare; they command a higher price on the used market (unless you find a chump to exploit). Non-VTEC sedans and coupes are available for reasonable money..and since you'll be tearing down the motor anyway, ultra high-mileage cars may save you money up front.

Regardless of which motor you boost, forged internals (rods,pistons) will be mandatory. Your crank will be fine. While you're at it, a cylinder bore brace ought to be installed to strenghten the cylinder bores.

Chassis wise, I'd look into polyurethane bushings in a few areas, working in concert with an upgrade in springs and shocks. Koni Yellows and Ground Control sleeves are a popular solution. Obviously, an upgraded clutch, a limited-slip differential, and strenghtened driveshafts will be needed to get the power to the ground. For the non-VTEC heads, a quick port-and polish together with a set of Crower 402 (turbo) cams, valvesprings and retainers will do nicely.

Brakes: IMO, with 300hp worth of go, you're going to need about 1200hp worth of stop to be safe. So I'd include some form of brake upgrade, ranging from larger rotors, to a whole new setup with larger calipers and upgraded lines.

The fiscal impact is clear: Building a 300wheel hp 4-cylinder motor that is as relaible as it's stock 120 wheel hp costs serious money. I could see this project costing six or seven thousand dollars on top of the cost of the vehicle.

I'm not trying to discourage you, in fact I think it'd be great to see a DB sleeper that can rape Corvettes.. Just be thorough and balanced in your mods, and never compromise on safety. I for one don't want to hear of someone killing themselves by stuffing a monster motor into an underprepared chassis.
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