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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 07:01 AM
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i been having an idling problem and the ecu code i pulled out was the IAC. I took the Iac out and cleaned it. I sprayed the whole thing with carbon cleaner. It would drive regular for a couple of hours. then the rvs would gradually go up and not idle as well. Then acouple of days later the idling gets worse until i spray some more carbon cleaner. HAs anyone had this experience. Could a high purge of fuel vapor in the evaporative emission canister or valve effect this?
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 07:04 AM
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why not just replace it
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 09:25 AM
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Did you reset the ecu? I've heard after cleaning idle control valve some cars run just as badly as before. some owners disconnected battery for a while solving problem.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 12:13 PM
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If you are having problems with idling when the engine is warm, it could also be the Fast Idle Thermo Valve. It is located below the air intake connection and is held on with three bolts. Also make sure that your coolant level is good and bleed any air out of the coolant lines using the bleed valve. These idle control valves need a good flow of coolant to work properly because they depend on the coolant temp.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by IrishBrewer
If you are having problems with idling when the engine is warm, it could also be the Fast Idle Thermo Valve. It is located below the air intake connection and is held on with three bolts. Also make sure that your coolant level is good and bleed any air out of the coolant lines using the bleed valve. These idle control valves need a good flow of coolant to work properly because they depend on the coolant temp.


I just put in a new radiator and thermostat...that could be the problem....How do i bleed the radiator? Where is the bleed valve? Can anyone show me a picture??
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 03:55 AM
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Find where the upper radiator attaches to the engine. About 2-3 inches to the right of that there should be a small bleed nipple that you can use to bleed out the air. I believe it is a 12 mm bolt. Make sure your radiator is full, put a shop towel under the valve, then loosen it until coolant starts to flow out with no bubbles.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by IrishBrewer
Find where the upper radiator attaches to the engine. About 2-3 inches to the right of that there should be a small bleed nipple that you can use to bleed out the air. I believe it is a 12 mm bolt. Make sure your radiator is full, put a shop towel under the valve, then loosen it until coolant starts to flow out with no bubbles.
Do i have to have the car at warm or can i do this when it is cold? Can you post some pics just to make sure i don't screw up...Thanks!
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 10:51 AM
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OK, I'll try a pic:



You bleed it on a cool engine (not running) after filling the radiator with 50/50. Then remove the cap and fill it up again. Then run the engine until the fan kicks on, shut it off and check the level again. Thats about it.
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 06:41 AM
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Thanks for the pics..and the help i greatly appreciated..
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 07:39 AM
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Does leaving the battery unhooked for a while reset the ECU??
I didn't think it worked that way.
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